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LV Honing Guide Mk II set up for the #140 *LINK*

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LV Honing Guide Mk II set up for the #140 *LINK*

#1

LV Honing Guide Mk II set up for the #140 *LINK*

Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)

>Just for William, who referred below to the need for a LV Mk II jig for the #140 (see Link).

Please note that, as I understand, there is a skew jig for the LV Honing Guide in the wings. Below is my stop gap offering.

There is no provision made for honing skew blades on the basic Mk II set up, but my modification should make honing these blades a doddle. See picture 1, which is the Mk II set up with the blade from my Stanley #140 skew block plane.

After a little experimentation, I determined that the 17° (green) mark coincides with a 25° skew bevel, and the 13° (green) mark coincides with a 20° skew bevel. (see picture 2). To set up the registration guide, the following must be done:

1. Mark a horizontal line across the registration guide with masking tape (picture 3). You can see (in Picture 4) that the skew blade is set up in the same way as any other square blade.

2. Mark off the guide lines for 25° and 20° on the registration guide (picture 5).

Picture 6 demonstrates the final set up.

The LN #140 has a left and right version, and the guideline on the registration jig may be used for either hand.

Regards from Perth

Derek


img

http://www.woodcentral.com/cgi-bin/handtools.pl?noframes;read=69641

Re: LV Honing Guide Mk II set up for the #140 *LINK*

#2

Re: LV Honing Guide Mk II set up for the #140

William Duffield, on the Cohansey

>Thanks, Derek. That should do it, assuming I can find a clean pair of glasses at my sharpening station :^) All that is required is that you start with a blade that already has the correct skew angle. Of course, there is enough play, side to side, in the #140 to compensate for a minor misalignment.

Even more interesting, thanks for the bevel angle conversions. However, I question the wisdom of sharpening the skew blade based first and foremost on the effective cutting angle, since to do so, you sacrifice included bevel angle, and therefore edge durability, sending you sooner back to the sharpening jig. I would think edge retention would be more dependent on actual bevel angle, not on effective skewed cutting angle. I'm not a metalurgist, but I suspect that less force would be required to dislodge a carbide crystal in the edge if it were applied an a skewed angle than if it were applied perpendicular to the edge, especially since the minute surface scratches from the sharpening medium are still applied perpendicular to the edge when the honing jig is used.

I'm not arguing that you are wrong to lower the bevel angle. I haven't done the testing. I'm just saying that thinking about it raises some interesting questions in my mind about what is happening at the edge of a skewed blade.

Re: LV Honing Guide Mk II set up for the #140 *LINK*

#3

Hey Derek, a question...

Scott Burr in Ben Lomond CA

>Do you think would work with other skewed blades? Expecially thin short blades like the #98/99 or 79?

Thanks, Scott

Re: LV Honing Guide Mk II set up for the #140 *LINK*

#4

Re: Hey Derek, a question... *LINK*

MikeW

>Hi Scott.

I'm sure Derek will be along at some point. Here's a link to some pics showing a 98 blade in the MK.II.

Yes, do what Derek shows as to setting up the #140. Depending on the desired bevel angle you may need to play with blade projection. For instance, mine is ground a little less steep than factory with a secondary, which is visable in one of the pictures.

Note that there is plenty of blade projection out of the back. It is held very securely. I have set up much shorter blades.

MikeW


#98 blade in the MK.II Honing Guide

Re: LV Honing Guide Mk II set up for the #140 *LINK*

#5

Thanks Mike!

Scott Burr in absoutly sweet Ben Lomond,CA

>

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