Observations from a distance
Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)
>This honing guide has some clever features.
I like the way it is possible to adjust the bevel angle by altering the blade rest angle. This does away with additional jigs, such as the LV registration jig. However, it only works as long as both sides of the guide are set accurately. No reason why it should be an issue here since indents are used.
I also like the sliding square that is used for the blade. Clever. Again, tolerances are important here otherwise it will twist. Even a slight twist will cause an out-of-square bevel.
The guide has a wide range of bevel angles, from 5 - 60 degrees. This allows for the honing of a scraper plane blade, which the LV cannot do. This also permits backbevels, as the LV does. However, it does not cater for 1-2 degree microbevels (which the LV does).
I think that this would be a very good guide if you are dedicated to using sandpaper only (Scary Sharp method) and not inclined to venture beyond this medium. Perhaps you might use diamond stones as well. The guide depends on constant parallel surfaces, that is, where the base surface (on which its feet run) is parallel to the sharpening surface (on which the blade runs). I find it interesting that the model is running on a waterstone. I don't know about your waterstones, but mine are never going to be parallel to the base surface. They are flat - very definitely flat - but tend to slope either forwards or backwards. Can this guide cope with that? I cannot see how. So its use must be reserved for a certain flat surface. I am not sure if diamond stones can be included here even though the plate may be flat. In any event, the finest diamond stone is insufficient for final honing. What happens after this stage?
It is a pity that the guides do not use a roller since that would address the issue. I wonder why?
Regards from Perth
Derek