scraper plane burr

Well, seeing how I'm a Burr... *LINK*

Scott Burr in Ben Lomond,CA

>I have a Stanley 112 with a Hock iron it. I never use a burr on it. I don't use one on my LN 212 either.

The best known method of adjusting scraper planes like this is here...


112 Instructions

Re: scraper plane burr

Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)

>Hi Les

I use scraper planes both with a burr and without one.

The #80's blade is bevelled at 45 degrees and has an added burr. This will take fine, gossamer shavings.

My Stanley #112 has a LN blade and this came with a 45 degree bevel I recall (but don't hold me to this). Anyway, I have reground this to 30 degrees since the lower angle produces a sharper edge. It is used without a burr. It, too, will produce gossamer shavings.

You wrote: "I'm using an old stanley scraper plane with a Hock iron. It seems to cut finer with a burr than with just a 45 degree bevel. A micro bevel doesn't make it finer".

Note that a #80 has a fixed blade angle, and the cutting angle is determined by the angle the burr is formed at. The #112 has a variable blade angle, and thus the cutting angle may be varied as well. The #112 (minus burr) works well as long as the blade is sharp (which is why I have been experimenting with 30 degrees - you can do the same by reversing a wide chisel and using it as a scraper - it should take wonderful shavings).

I'm not sure if any of this is helpful. Perhaps you might say which scraper plane you are using?

Regards from Perth

Derek

Re: scraper plane burr

William Duffield, on the Cohansey

>I think scraper planes, in particular, the #85 and #112 planes that I have used work better with a well turned burr. However, they work OK without a burr. Getting a good, consistent burr is a difficult skill to master. Adjusting the blade in the plane to take advantage of that burr is also difficult. The time spent to reinstall the blade and readjust it in the scraper plane is a lot more than you would spend with a card scraper, especially since with a card scraper you can easily adjust your angle of attack manually, by feel, while you are working. There is no angle adjustment on the #85, and the angle adjustment on the #112, #12, L-V, #212, etc. takes a lot of fiddling, because changing the angle also changes the projection of the blade. Note that I don't use a burr turning jig, e.g., the one offered by Lee Valley, so my burrs may be less consistent than those of someone who does use this appliance.

With card scrapers, however, since adjusting the angle of attack is so easy and natural, a consistent burr is unimportant. Being able to change the angle of the burr means I can quickly reform the burr when it wears several times before I have to rehone the blade. This is not the case with a scraper plane.

Therefore, my #112 mostly sits idle, while my card scrapers get a lot of use. The common wisdom of "no burr on scraper planes" is probably a reasonable strategy for most users. Before you unconditionally accept this rule, consider trying your scraper plane both with and without the burr, and see which works best for you and your wood. If you have not mastered the card scraper, trying to make a scraper plane work with a burr will surely be frunstrating.

Re: scraper plane burr

Moses Yoder in White Pigeon, MI

>I use a card scraper or scraper plane mostly to remove areas with tearout from planing, not for "finishing" the board. I go over most of the projects I do with a sanding block after planing; only on easy woods to plane where there is no tearout, or very little tearout and I decide to leave it, I don't sand after planing. So I am not really looking for slick shiny surfaces, I am looking to remove wood without tearout. I find I can take a much heavier cut with a finely turned burr than I can without a burr.

Re: scraper plane burr

les winter

>Thanks for your input.

regards

Les