Est. 1998 — 27 years of woodworking knowledge
Marking knife and awl set
Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)
>I made this marking knife and awl out of a old spade bit. The awl received the shaft, which was turned on my drill press. The spade bit, ground on my belt sander, became a double-sided blade. The rest is a bit of Jarrah offcut and copper pipe.
Both are sharp and hard. I used them today to mark out the dovetails on a box.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Re: Marking knife and awl set
Frank Mutchler in Colorado Springs
>Very nice job, Derek. When turning on the drill press, I assume you use a rasp & files? Do you anchor the free end at all? Thanks for posting.
Re: Marking knife and awl set *LINK*
Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)
>Sorry Frank, I think I may have given the wrong impression. It is the awl blade (not handle) that I turned on the drill press. Plug in the one end and use both files and an angle grinder to tune it down to the required shape.
The handles were turned on my lathe. This is a very new skill (I'm not sure that I should use that adjective to describe what I do!).
They are actually companion pieces to go with the bowsaw I made recently (that was made with rasps and spokeshaves). Link below. All part of a competition to use two blocks of wood (12"x1"x6"). I think I have just enough left to make a blade setting hammer.
All just a bit of fun.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Bowsaw
Re: Marking knife and awl set
Frank Mutchler in Colorado Springs
>"Ah, soooooo Grasshopper!" comes to mind. Oh well, I need to get my Jet mini-lathe out of the box and turn some handles myself....been saying that for over a year now.:>(
There is always some project that has to be finished first before I get to play. RoundTuit and all that:>)!!
Re: Marking knife and awl set
Frank D. in Montreal
>Nice work Derek, I like those a lot. Did you use copper pipe for the ferrules?
Re: Marking knife and awl set
Hank Knight in SC
>Very nice work Derek! You are certainly entitled to use the word "skill" to describe your abilities on the lathe - and the drill press too.
Re: Marking knife and awl set *LINK*
Philly
>Nice work Derek!
They certainly look as good as it gets-keep up the good work!
Philly
http://www.philsville.co.uk
Re: How I grind awl points
William Duffield, on the Cohansey
>About the quickest and most consistent way I have found to make awl points uses a lathe with a Jacob's chuck and a 4" angle grinder. I start with round annealed high carbon steel drill rod. I put the Jacob's chuck in the lathe's headstock and chuck a length of drill rod. I prefer 3/16" or 1/8" diameter O1, and find that about 7" long works well. I put on my eye and ear protection and a pair of gloves, put an abrasive disk for ferrous metals in the grinder, turn on the lathe and the grinder, and taper the end of the drill rod by eye. The disk leaves a lot of scratches in the awl, so I refine the surface with hand-held sharpening stones and sand paper, with the lathe turning. After the point has been shaped, I harden and temper it. When you temper it, I think you only want the tip to remain close to file hard. The shank needs to be softer, for more flexibility, so it won't break when you drop it or try to use it for some inappropriate task. It is easy to differentially temper it by holding the sharp point with a pair of tongs or pliers, applying heat with a torch to the shank end, and watching for appropriate color change in the steel.
Re: How I grind awl points
Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)
>Hi William
I would do it exactly as you if I had a lathe with a Jacobs chuck (mine is a real cheapie, bought just to get my feet wet in the pond of turning handles) and if I were using a nice clean steel rod. No criticism implied here by me - just an update on what I can and can't do.
My version is the "peasants method" I might add that I am very impressed with the steel that is used in these spade drill bits. In spite of my angle grinder (and files and sandpaper), it refused to lose its temper (OK, I was careful, never let it get red hot, and quenched frequently). The awl is hard enough to maintain its sharpness through quite a bit of hardwood markings, and it is extremely sharp (like a knife). The marking knife, likewise, is sharp enough to slice endgrain pine (not altogether a good thing, since the lines are fine - perhaps too fine for clarity when marking endgrain dovetails). It, too, have held its edge very well. I guess the reason why I posted this was not because the items are that pretty (they are OK, nothing more) but because the materials are all around us (particularly the steel), and relatively easy to made (if I can, anyone can!). Regards from Perth Derek
Re: How I grind awl points
Dave Anderson Chester, NH
>With the 3/16" O-1 drill rod I use to make my awls, I harden only the first 2 inches up from the business end. You're right in my opinion, the shank needs to be softer and more flexible to prevent snapping when hardness gets over Rc55. I harden my tips to Rc 60-62.