diamond wheel dresser

Re: diamond wheel dresser

Joel

>multiple point it what you want. the single point ones are for tool rooms where they clampe the dresser to a slide rest to move it across the wheel.

Re: diamond wheel dresser *LINK*

Joel

>oh - yeah since you asked we stock them. you can find them less expensive too.


multipont diamond dresser

Thank you

Jack Guzman from Maine

>

Mine

Jim Reed @ Tallahassee

>I got mine from Harbor Freight and have abused the cr*p out of it but it refuses to die. It has a little rectangle on the end with diamonds embedded in it. I use a very soft touch and let the diamonds do the work. So far it has ground down to nubbins three grey wheels and four or five of the soft ones.

Re: Mine

Todd O. Cronkhite Maine Native in FL. Exile :~(

>the single point ones are for tool rooms where they clampe the dresser to a slide rest to move it across the wheel.

Ahhhhhhhhhh, that explains why I didn't have good luck with my single point. I now use a star wheel which I like, but I only use it on the coarse grey stones as that is what I use for shaping and bevel grinding, therefore I cannot vouch for how it would work on the white and pink stones.

Sure learning alot today. :~)

Todd O.

Freehand use of single point

Bob Hackett

>While most single point diamonds are found in short holders and meant to be used in a guided fixture you may find one like I use that`s attached to a long rod and handle.

The key to using one of these is to have a collar that`s held by a setscrew so it can be adjusted till the diamond just contacts the wheel and then slide it across the rest with the collar registered against the bottom edge of the rest.This not only trues and dresses the wheel but makes the face of the wheel true to the rest.

These "diamonds on a stick" were also used to custom profile a wheel.Sure comes in handy for making custom tooling for things like grinding and trueing flutes in hand made gouges.

If you`re just interested in trueing and deglazing then the multi diamond is the way to go.

Mainely,Bob-Who got his favorite "diamond on a stick" from an old tool and die maker.

Re: Freehand use of single point

Mike swindell

>Garrett Hack recommends using a single point diamond dresser. He has a great description in his book on planemaking. Basiclly you drill a hole in piece of hardwood the same diameter as your dresser. Make a saw kerf to clamp the dresser with a screw, Attach to a base which will slide across your tool guide. Shim with masking tape and remove material as needed to true up the wheel. I used this on a hand grinder and it works great. As a previous responder noted, your wheel will now be true to your guide.

Re: Freehand use of single point

Joel

>then instead of having a nicely crowned wheel which is so easy to use you have a flat wheel which digs into and burns corners very easily.

if I had a single point dresser I might build a jig and go that route - but if you are buying a dresser a multipoint one is the way to go.

best tip around

GolfSteve in Calgary

>Joel, a crowned grinding wheel is one of the best tips I've picked up on Woodcentral (unfortunately I don't remember who the tip was from). The crown makes grinding a plane blade or chisel soooo much easier - both freehand and when using a jig.

I tend to use the Veritas grinding jig because I get better results - but I can get pretty good results just by using my hand as a guide on a standard tool rest.

The slight crown on the wheel makes it much harder to burn the corners of your blade.

I use one of those star dressers and have no problems at all.

Re: best tip around

Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)

>"The slight crown on the wheel makes it much harder to burn the corners of your blade".

The best tip I got in this regard was from a video of Rob Cosman. What he demonstrated was entering the wheel in the middle of its face, then exiting it the same way. In other words, he NEVER runs a blade fully across a wheel. He starts halfway across the face, gets halfway across the wheel face, and then retracts the blade (pulls it away from the wheel). Then he enters the wheel halfway from that side and moves back again, again retracting the blade when the rear is halfway across the wheel. Never crosses a wheel edge.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Re: Freehand use of single point

Mike swindell

>I suppose on a powered grinder the operator could burn corners on a flat wheel but moving the iron back and forth I have never had this problem with a hand grinder. Both Finck and Krenov never mention a crowned wheel, both say they need a flat surface for grinding. A flat wheel will also reduce grinding time even though grinding is only done when required, as opposed to sharpening. I'll keep my wheel flat as I can obtain very good results with my technique.