WoodCentral Forums

Est. 1998 — 27 years of woodworking knowledge

sharpening a curved iron, diamond review

Posts

sharpening a curved iron, diamond review

#1

sharpening a curved iron, diamond review

bill tindall

>Brief Summary: Make cylinder from aluminium, mount in something that will spin it, charge with diamond, rapidly grinds concave edges of irons and tool flutes.

As many know I have been evaluating diamond abrasive for tool sharpening. The advantages are speed and low cost. I have found a new application that works particularly well for an otherwise tedious task.

I have found that diamond charges well on aluminium, particularly the coarse grits. It embeds well and cuts well, but at a finer effective grit size than when charged on something harder like cast iron.

I have turned a variety of sized cylinders that fit my drill press, or lathe chuck of wood lathe (depending on orientation of cylinder that is desired, vertical for irons and horizontal for tool flutes). The diameter should be some less than the diameter of that to be sharpened. The charged cylinder should turn slowly, maybe about 200 rpm so control is easier.

Shown is a LV concave spoke shave iron. Thankyou!! Mr. Lee, as it is the only turely flat iron I have even purchased and hence, its back polished up quickly with diamonds. I started with 60 micron on acrylic which cuts like gang busters. Then finished with 15 and then 1 micron on cast iron. I am finding the coarse diamond (60 midron)does better on a softer substrate, like acrylic. The 15 and 1 micron work ok on acrylic but the tool slides easier on cast iron. I've got it so I use it, but acrylic is cheaper and more readily available until someone realizes a good marketing oportunity and sells cast iron plates(editorial).

The bevel had huge scratches, like what might have resulted from 60 grit grinding. A 15 micron abrasive on aluminium removed these scratches in a minute or two and left a nearly polished surface. Mineral spirits was used to lubricate. I finished with 1 micron on a separate cylinder.


img

Re: sharpening a curved iron, diamond review

#2

Re: sharpening a curved iron, diamond review

Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)

>Bill

Thanks for this. I was trying to sharpen the very same spokeshave blade just yesterday, trying something similar on my drill press, but using sandpaper instead. All I can say to the masses huddled around their steam-driven monitors is DO NOT do it my way unless you are wearing protective armour!! The sharp corners of the blade caught the sandpaper, which then sent it flying across the room. Luckily I stopped it with my frontal lobes before it did any real damage.

I will try it your way next time - just a warning for others: only use a solid, not penetrating material to grind against!

Regards from Perth

Derek

Re: sharpening a curved iron, diamond review

#3

Pictures! We Demand Pictures!

Bob Hutchins in central TX

>Rule 32 clearly states that ALL frontal lobe stops require photographic proof to be credited!

BobH

Re: sharpening a curved iron, diamond review

#4

Re: sharpening a curved iron, diamond review

What kind of diamond

>are you using? Do you use a powder or do you use a compound (oil or water)? How do you charge the cylinders? Thanks for posting.

Paul Dzioba

Re: sharpening a curved iron, diamond review

#5

I had the same experience

bill tindall

>so be warned twice!!

Re: sharpening a curved iron, diamond review

#6

Varieties of diamond used

bill tindall

>To charge aluminium- Diamond paste, a tube of which is show in the picture. Dab it on and spread with finger. If you can see that some is transfered to cylinder, that is plenty.

To charge cast iron- paste or loose diamond. Dab and smear around. A "worm" from the tube 1/4" long is enough to charge a 3 x 12" plate. In fact that may be too much. Again, if you can see it, it is plenty. Pennies worth of diamond per charge, which is why this technique is so cheap. If you over charge, carry-over of grits can be an issue. You can clearly hear 15 micron milling off metal. The cast iron plate rings when it is cutting well, most satisfying. So by grinding sound you can tell if the plate is charged ok.

Acrylic- Paste or loose for coarse diamonds grits. I found the grease based paste was a bit thick for charging the small grits so I went to loose powder for 15 and 1 micron. Paste would probably be ok if thinned with lubricant, but I haven't experimented with this idea.

I have yet to settle on a lubricant. Mineral spirits seems to work well, but I have also used WD 40 and propylene glycol for the loose powder on acrylic. Propylene glycol is available from you local animal health store by the gallon and what ever is left from lubing can be used to treat ketosis in ewes stressed from birthing .

I'm off to Winterthur, and other area attractions, this evening and won't be back for a week. So if there are further questions, I try to answer in a week.

👍 This page answered my questions

Your vote helps other woodworkers quickly find the answers and techniques that actually work in the shop.