Lie Nielson

Re: Lie Nielson

Jeremy Osner

>"You get what you pay for"

Far be it from me to restart the old rust vs. new wars... but I gotta half-way disagree. You do get out of a tool what you put into getting it -- one way you can put effort into getting a tool, is to spend a lot of money on it; another way is to spend some time on hunting for a good-quality old tool. I prefer to spend the time rather than the money in most cases.

Re: Lie Nielson

John Weber - GO BUCKS!

>I really enjoy my LN's. Starting out I would look toward a #62 or #164 (eventually both), a #4-1/2 smoother, then maybe a #4. It's easy enough to fine "need" for many. Depending on what you want to do, the #5-1/2 is also very nice. Also if you work with hardwoods, you might want to consider York Pitch frogs. I have a 4, 4-1/2, and 5-1/2 all with YP frogs, If I even needed/wanted a standard frog, my #7 with interchanges with the 4-1/2 and 5-1/2 and I have a regular #4 as well.

John

Re: Lie Nielson

Don Thompson - Cutler Ridge, Florida

>Bob,

Firstly, just out of curiosity, what planes did you buy? Old, new, Stanley, Record?

It is hard to recommend a plane purchase if we do not know what sort of woodworking that you do. If you actually got some use out of one or more of the planes that you have, perhaps just upgrading to the same type in a LN model would be appropriate.

Don't overlook the Veritas planes - some comparible models are thought by many to be superior in functionality (and certainly good values).

Re: Lie Nielson

Patrick Gibbons, Houston

>I have the bronze LN low-angle block. The 102 or 103? I can't remember the number. I use it a lot just because it fits so well in the hand. I think the Veritas small block would be just as nice and others have already remarked that the lateral adjustment feature and the set screws, not to mention the lesser price, make it more attractive than the LN. LN has recently introduced an iron version that is priced about like the Veritas. I have the larger Veritas block and it is a real joy also. Veritas offers accessories with this block that really sweeten the deal. I have the chamfer guide. I know that I should be able to make a chamfer with a block without the use of a "jig" but this guide makes it fast, easy and effortless. Its availability alone makes the Veritas block worth having in my opinion. I am very, very sure that one would be just as satisfied with the LN blocks though I do not own one to personally verify this. I read somewhere that Clifton was coming out with a block plane.

Re: Lie Nielson

alan womack

>Could you elaborate more on your fettling?

Over the last 18 months I've not fully "finished" a plane, but after watching David Charlesworth make .001 shavings in videos with Stanley UK recent model planes and LN blades, I've continued fettling to good effect.

My adjustable mouth stanley block plane with a Hock Iron needed flattening. A half hour with 80 grit drywall screen was a ephinany. Originally it grabbed, tore out, jerked around. Sole looked pretty good to me, but after the screen, WOWEEE! It made a world of difference. I vow to take it all the way to 400 on the sole someday. I think I am at 120 or 150 now.

I am currently reworking a NO 4 with a SW logo blade that will not stock chipping durring sharpening. My shaptons are working on flattening the back of a Veritas A2 replacement I bought last fall. Once I have that flattening out, this weekends task, I expect to get sub .002 shavings. The SW blade leaves an awesome surface, but just a bit of a nib from chips. My knight smoother takes care of that.

Hang in there, but you could sell your planes on Ebay to help take some of the sting out of the LN prices.

Alan

Re: Lie Nielson

R.J.Whelan

>Bob,

I'd probably start with a block plane: I have both the low and regular angle adjustable throat planes, but the one I reach for most often is the cast iron low angle with fixed throat (regular opening).

I also own the mitre plane which I use to shoot mitres and to square up flush cuts - I really like this plane, but probably wouldn't recommend it as a first purchase due to it specialized use.

My most used bench plane is a #7 - I use a combination of hand and power tools, but the every board gets a pass or two after it comes off of the jointer.

My smoother (final) is a Clark and Williams woody; I also have a LN #3 which is a little small for most, but I got used to it's size over thirty years ago and I'm comfortable with it.

The other tools I use a lot are the Lee Valley medium and large shoulder planes - I do a lot of M&T work and these two planes are indispensable. I used to own the LN #073, but it was just too large and heavy for me - I thought the LV large plane might present the same problems, but to my surprise and delight it fits my large, lumpy hands very nicely.

Good luck with your decision ... rj

Re: Lie Nielson

Todd O. Cronkhite Maine Native in FL. Exile :~(

>Bob,

Would be interesting to know what you are refering to when you say "cheap planes". I can't believe that you'd be talking about vintage tools. The reason I say that it because I have bought many vintage Stanley and Millers Falls Bench and block planes from flea markets/antique shops and even pawn shops and once sharpened up I have never had a problem getting fine shavings. I have never had, or felt I had a need to do all this fettling that seems to be all the rage now with these vintage tools either.

If you're buying modern Stanleys I can see where you'd have a problem.

I highly suspect that the problem lies in your sharpening technique. the VERY FIRST thing you need to do is to flatten the back of your blades for if you don't you'll never get a properly sharpened edge.

would also be interesting to know what types of wood you use mostly as that will determine the angle at which you need to sharpen you edges. Before spending lots o' loot on new planes I'd definatly persure perfecting your sharpening techniques. You'll find tons of info in the archives and at half a kagillion other woodworking sites.

Todd O.

Re: Lie Nielson

Bob Sobieck

>They are all Stanley. My smoother is from my grandfather. It works ok and seems better made than my block plane. The block I purchased from payless cashways in las vages in late 1980's. It was more of a "construction" tool at the time - I just can't get good work out of this one.

Re: Lie Nielson

Bob Sobieck

>My most troublsome is the stanley block. I purchased it at Payless Cahsways (a construction supply place) in Las Vegas in the late 1980's. I have been through the flateining regiment and own a nice set of waterstones that I use regular. I think the blade is a bit too thin, it chatters a bit. I get by but am looking for better.

Bob

Re: Lie Nielson

Joe Rogers, Northern Virginia

>Bob...When I got my Lie-Nielsen Low Angle Adjustable Mouth block plane I was truly stunned by the quality. Since then I use it more than any other plane. No chatter...it is a beautifuly made plane.It makes most other planes look like cheap tool bin junk.JR

Re: Lie Nielson

Lyn J. Mangiameli

>I agree. This is one of my favorite planes and the best block plane I've ever used. It isn't the perfect fit for everyone's hands, but will be for many if not most. For me, just everything is right about this plane.

Ditto ...

Clay C in Miami

>

Re: Lie Nielsen

Frank D. in Montreal

>Hi Bob, just to add to what has been said, if you want to save a little money I'd suggest getting an old Stanley as a jack. Jack planes, if you use them to take off a lot of wood relatively quickly in initial dimensioning) aren't precision instruments and old Stanleys work fine for this (I have an old type 11 that didn't even need any fettling, it's a great plane). That way you can get a good smoother more quickly, so you won't need to use your jack as a smoother. I have several LN bench planes and I like them a lot, but the jack isn't worth that much money in my opinion. If you want to buy new, LV (Veritas) could be another option, the low-angle jack that is.

I also agree with the comments on the block planes. I have 3 LN blocks and they are amazing planes. I started with other brands but sold them all once I got my first LN. I'd get the low-angle adjustable mouth if you want one that will do a lot of jobs. Eventually you can get an extra blade and grind it at a higher angle to use the plane with the grain, as a little smoother or for shaping with the grain to a final surface.

Frank

Stanley Block Plane

Don Thompson - Cutler Ridge, Florida

>Stanley has made many, many, many block planes. Do you know what model yours is?

My first plane was a red and black Stanley "contractors" block plane. It turned me off to planes for a while. I have had much better luck with other block planes (especially LN).