Problems planing poplar !

Thanks!

Clay C in Miami

>And, even more so, thanks for all the effort that went/goes into this research ...

Clay

Glad someone's interested!

Steve Elliott

>I'm still doing blade tests, and am trying to make the results easier to understand. With all the variables involved, I need to go back and repeat some of my early tests to make them conform to my new "standard" procedures.

Currently I'm testing an Academy Saws M2 blade and a CPM 3V blade at more acute bevel angles, and have found that they perform better at 32 degrees than at 34, and still don't suffer from chipping when planing cherry and Honduras mahogany. My A2 blade did chip at 32 degrees.

I'll upload my most recent results today. The changes can be seen on the page Results > Bevel Angles.

600 degrees!!!

Jim Reed @Tallahassee

>Not to be contrary, but that is in the tempering range of many steels and WOULD make a difference in the temper.

Re: Burning A2?

Joel

>Yeah, 600 is an exaggeration.

For traditional oil and water hardening steels you will draw the temperature at about 430 degrees and up. Water hardening being less forgiving than oil hardening. THe point is that modern tools are rarely made of the old style steels anymore even modern oil hardening steel is a little more forgiving than that. so going a little higher isn't a problem (expecially since you are honing after grinding and removing the edge where the highest grind temperature tool place.

Remember I'm not advocating burning tools - just mentioning that it isn't as critical as it once was. So if you get a tiny straw burn mark there is no need to grind back after a minor burn. And certainly no need to use a slow speed or wet grinder to prevent the occasional burn.

I think really what I am saying is that

I'm less compulsive than I used to be. I'm grinding a lot faster, more frequently and spending a lot less time maintaining tools than I used to - with no observable decline in performance.

Re: Glad someone's interested!

Joe Rogers

>Have you tested all the blades you feature on the opening page? I would be interested in the origins of the blades too. The illustration is small :-( and my eyes aren't what they used to be. I got as close to the monitor as I could....JR

Testing has just begun

Steve Elliott

>The intended scope of my testing was pretty ambitious, and so far I've only tested the blades I'm most interested in. Just getting my testing procedure worked out has taken a long time.

The image on my home page shows the blades that had the best-looking logos. Some of the better blades had no logo at all (Academy Saws M2, for example) and weren't included. The photo is intended to give a quick impression of what the site is about. Here's a larger version of it:

I still intend to test all ten blades, but this project is looking like it will take years. I'm posting partial results because the feedback I get has been helpful to me in getting my procedure worked out, and because waiting to post complete results might mean I never post anything.

Hand Grinding

Christopher Fitch @ Memphis

>Hijack! sorta...

I recently watched a new episode of David Mark's Woodworks show on DIY about sharpening.

First I was surprised to even see a woodworking show about sharpening. He did a decent job of highlighting the basics..

The real shock was when he showed his 3 grinders....

Two were power grinders as one would expect...but the 3rd was a hand grinder! To top it off, he actually demonstrated using it on a japanese chisel to grind a bevel.

I somehow doubt you will see Norm do that...

:)

Fast grinding

Jim Reed @Tallahassee

>At last a point of agreement! I think speed of grinding is just one of the variables that causes friction. High speed means less time, low speed means more time. Friction and burn is the same either way. I also highly agree with you that a few seconds is good. Buy good wheels, keep them dressed and use a light touch. Those practices will keep you on the good side of sharpness.

Thanks for the larger image :-)

Joe Rogers

>