Feedback about my plane blade sharpening analysis *LINK*

Re: Feedback about my plane blade sharpening analy *LINK*

Clay C in Miami

>Hi,

Good idea to post this here - I definitely miss lots of stuff on the main board, and the true honing madmen seem to be here too.

This sentence, pasted from the article, needs ... something - !

"Monocrystalline stones are more expensive and apparently cut faster than monocrystalline stones."

Also, there's a very extensive analysis of diamond paste use somewhere ... maybe by Bill Tindall, maybe at SMC? I think it's worth at least looking at each system from the point of view of one of its proponents.

As to availability and cost of the iron plates for diamond use, the full 'system' of Harris Tools lapping plates and diamond paste can be had on eBay for about $120 (instead of $240 from Harris). Not exactly cheap, but compared to that $1550 set of Shaptons everyone loves so much ... well ...

I paid $118.25 (including shipping) for the HT set from the below-linked seller.

And, thanks for all the work! I'm sure this'll end up as an Article.

Clay


HT lapping plates - seller page

Re: Feedback about my plane blade sharpening analy

Peter Michaux

>Hi Clay,

Thanks for the comments.

*polycrystalline (for second one). Amazing how many times you can re-read something and still miss little things.

I am trying to looking at each system from the point of view of one of its proponents. That is what the Other's Conclusions section is supposed to be for. I've included almost every author that I have read. The more I look into this, I keep finding more people that are Shapton users. Shapton stones seem to have a lot of momentum these days. I will look for the Bill Tindall info and if anyone else has a link please post it.

Thanks again!

Peter

Re: Feedback about my plane blade sharpening analy

Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)

>Hi Peter

Great article. It has just become one of my references!

Just a couple of points for clarification about using a belt sander as a grinder and/or for honing - file these away and use if/when necessary. (my recent article is expected to be posted in the Articles section at some stage).

1. I have access to belts that are 2000 grit, which is roughly equivalent to a 8000 waterstone (which I use). I have not tried one of these belts, but I have tried a 1300 grit belt and followed this with Veritas green rouge on a mechanised flat plate (the sanding plate on the belt sander). While I would not use this for smoothers (the edge has visible fine scratches), the resulting blades are very sharp indeed, and very acceptable for all types of chisels. I suspect that a 2000 grit belt plus Veritas green rouge would produce an edge that requires no further treatment for a smoother (where the blade must be both sharp AND smooth). I have not noticed any rounding of blades sharpened this way.

2. In conversation with Rob Lee, he made the point that stropping speed is a relevant issue when examining the effects of the green rouge on an edge. Brent Beech (in his article - see his website) argued that stropping caused a deterioration of the edge, suggesting that the 0.5 micron rating was inaccurate. Taking Rob's statement together with my own experiences (of stropping on a fast rotating flat disk sander), it is apparent that speed must play a significant role in reducing the micron size of the sharpening media. Of course, my opinion is just subjective, and Brent's is objective, but I suspect that the parameters alter when you introduce stropping speed into the equation (it then becomes honing, as defined by Brent).

Regards from Perth

Derek

Re: Feedback about my plane blade sharpening analy

Pam Niedermayer - Austin, TX

>it is apparent that speed must play a significant role in reducing the micron size of the sharpening media

Derek, I think this is one of those intuitively obvious things. For example, look at how chisels work in turning vs how they work on still wood. Now, exactly why that's true I don't know.

Pam

How is it different?

bill tindall

>I turn a fair amount and do so with shearing cuts (not scraping). Seems just like paring to me( but screw ups sure happen a lot faster). Bevel controls depth in both cases. Curly shaving produced in each case.

Now here is a Neander project. I just turned a hoe handle. Went to flea mkt and all they had was handles made of some foreign wood and they had no taper. I just happened to have a perfect straight grained 5/4 ash cut off strip. It was a lesson learning to turn something that limber. Some sanding WAS necessary!!