>...did you have to throw in "spring-loaded gyratory handles" too? Looking forward to recieving my new grinder toolrest.
Just curious..how does one deal with the wobble from those plastic bushings on Norton grinding stones? The stock Norton grinding stones that came with my grinder had a factory 1/2" hole. I kept the 36 grit wheel but opted to change the 60 grit stone to a blue 60 grit stone for cooler grinding.
As an asside, I reaaaaally love my new Baldor 1,800 rpm slow speed grinder. Definitely worth the extra expense over compatable lesser priced brands.
>Why do you like it better than the leower priced slow speed grinders? I am just curious because I am looking at slow or variable speed grinders (and probably always will me and never get one).
>I've used several grinders, slow-speed and otherwise, in both metalworking and woodworking shops, and I chose a 7" slow-speed Baldor. Why a 7"? Because I like the radius of the hollow for the broad range of tool sizes I use in my work, which ranges from making small tools to grinding wide plane irons and everything in between for carving and turning. 6" and 8" are fine, too, but I liked the 7" grinders in I'd used in handtools classes and other woodworker's shops.
As for running smoothly, you have to accept that wheels are usually aberrant in several respects, from hub offset to density variations. Simply dressing isn't enough, so I use Oneway balancers (you can make your own, too, but these are nice and affordable). I prefer the older Oneway balancer style to the newer, but the newer's fine. Lee Valley carries these.
The advantages are much finer tool control against the wheel with much lighter contact, less removal of metal (tools last longer), tools stay cool, and wheels last longer (less wear, less dressing).
With good quality wheels and balancers I have to be careful (I put Sharpy marks on my wheels) to make sure it isn't on or still freewheeling, which lasts surprisingly long.
Although I own both highly friable Norton white 80 and pink 100 grit wheels, I more often leave the 36 and 60 grit wheels on the arbor.
I'm not saying Baldor is the only grinder to buy* -- I've used very good older Delta, Milwaukee, and even Craftsmen grinders -- but Baldors are wonderfully rugged and smooth-running and the price is more than fair.
*I also prefer Baldor polishing lathes for goldsmithing.
>... to a grinder, slow speed or otherwise, is a bench top belt sander.
Not only do these run at a slower speed than most (all?) grinders (I believe that mine is 1400 rpm), but they will grind a bevel more evenly as the grinding surface is wider (I had a 4" machine and now have a 6" machine, and both are terrific). Don't confuse this type of belt sander with those with 1" wide belts. They are not the same.
I have belts with a range of grits from 80 through to 1300.
You have the choice of flat grinding (then moving to microbevels) or hollow grinding.
Sharpening/honing is still on waterstones (up to 8000), but with an appropriate jig to hold the blade (which I have built), this type of machine so outscores a Tormek and other similar machines it is just no competition (especially in the area of speed), and at a faction of the cost.
>I probably shouldn't have said that because I'm no expert on motors. What I can say is that Baldor has a reputation for building quality energy efficient motors that run smooth and quiet and last a lifetime. You can probably get a grinder for $80-$90 bucks and it will work just fine. But then again for $80 bucks you probably have the result of some engineer who probably has never used a grinder probing and prodding to figure where to cut corners, reduce costs and put out a product that should outlast the warranty. YMMV
Some grinders can accomodate large stabilizer washers (like for a tablesaw blade) to mitigate the side to side movement of a grinding wheel. While it's a distraction - it really isn't a problem unless it's really wild.
Wheel "hop" (out of round) is the real issue - and is addressed by dressing the wheel circumference - Don't dress the sides !
>I use and old belt driven Arbor Grinder. Don't know what the motor came off of that drives it. Does everything I could want. Paid $5 for it about 15 years ago and never had any trouble with it. If it finaly wears out can't imagine paying $90 for it's replacement. Of course I think it was about 50 years old when I bought it so getting its replacement isn't something I spend much time thinking about.....Todd
>I see alot of old machines still in use today, but wonder if I'll see alot of new machines still in use ten years from now. I remember touring a hundred year old elevator machine room that was in pristine condition, maintained with pride by the mechanics who watched over it. A little attention to brushes, gears and bearings and these antiques will serve another hundred years.
Can't imagine you'll ever need to replace that old grinder of yours, but if you do, I'm sure you'll find another for less than five bucks. The build quality on the Baldor reminds me of the machines of yore and not the likes of which can be matched by it's Taiwanese counterparts (they probably could, but they don't). Besides, if I do find an old grinder, I would think to get most of my money out of that Baldor should I decide to sell it.
How do you deal with the seam in the belt? I also don't seem to be able to flatten well with fine grit. I do okay with really coarse belts (60-80). I've found overheating to be a problem as well.
I just haven't had good luck with anything but hand honing. Am I missing the boat?
>The problem with old baldors are that they do break, and you may not be able to get parts. I have an old one the runs as smoothly as a swiss watch. Only problem is I have to spin it up to speed by hand. I got a "bargain" that needed a start relay switch. They used a current sensing relay as a cut out switch for the start winding. The contactor broke and the switch is obsolete. I went to a motor repair shop, and they went to Baldor, there are no substitute relays available. I'd love to get it running, but have yet to find a sub relay.
>It was a solenoid type mechanism. Apparently when the current reached a certain level in the run winding, it pulled the solenoid up and the contacts opened. I opened it up to take a look, and the contact had broken off. It looked to be a pretty fragile affair.
>I think Mid Ohio Electric in Columbus is the one I went to, and they called Baldor and that's how I found out the bad news. I've looked for a similar type start winding controller (not recently) to no avail.
I do have some pictures, and I will post them here. So as not to hijack this thread I will do it separately. Look out for the post, "Belt Sander Grinder Jig".
I suspect that the problem you are having with the seams of your belts may be due to poor manufacturing. I do not experience this problem, and never have. My belts from 80 - 240 grit are purchased from bulk orders (as sold to stores), but the 400, 600 and 1300 are made up for me by a local manufacturer. I am sure that this could be replicated anywhere. What I do notice is that each belt requires a tiny adjustment to centre on the belt sander (i.e. the belts are not exactly the same length to the micro-mm), but this only takes a couple of seconds to do.
Heat is only a problem if you grind for too long, and even then it rarely gets past "warm in the hand". If you run progressively through the grits, then each grind only requires a few seconds worth, and heat is not going to build up. It actually comes down to being able to establish a replicatable grinding angle (so that you are not regrinding each time). I will post pictures of my jig and the process so you can see (separately).
>I'm sorry to hear that. I looked up the parts list for the grinder that I have and the only electrical part listed is the switch. Not being an electrician or mechanic, I had to get one of the old texbooks of the shelf (ugh...can't believe I used to read these technical books like they were novels). Maybe I'm having trouble wrapping my head around the problem, but electrical motor solenoids actuators are fairly simple control devices and are commonly in use and available. Not sure why your guy couldn't fix it. Have you tried McMaster Carr for a replacement part?
