mortised bench stop question *LINK*

Re: mortised bench stop question

Mike Real from Pittsburgh

>I have one and it works pretty well for me. They are cheaply made though, the spring has broken and the screw, on some that I put on my bench

Thanks, Mike

mike recchione

>

Re: mortised bench stop question

Kent in Emmaus, PA

>Had one of those on an old bench, and much as I hate to disparage anything in the LV catalog, I'd have to go with "more trouble than it's worth."

Installation requires a stepped mortise, which is a bit finicky, and will have to be done over if you resurface the bench. The example I had was cast slightly out of square, making a sloppy fit.

In use, it works, but you're limited to a single position on the bench, and basically a single point of contact to secure the workpiece. Oh yeah, it clogs up with chips too.

A thin batten clamped to the benchtop is easier, versatile and effective.

Re: mortised bench stop question

Wendell @ Murphy, TX

>I can't remember where I saw this solution, but here's what I plan to do for a planing stop. Attach a wooden stop to the end of the bench using hanger bolts. Make slots for the hanger bolts so that you can adjust the heighth of the stop. You can make it so the stop sits below the surface of the top when not in use so you don't have to worry about it when you resurface the top. I am sure its not a perfect solution but it is easy and cheap to implement.

Wendell

Earlier thread  *LINK*

Ed Mulligan, Cape Cod

>


Planing End Stop

Re: Earlier thread

Wendell @ Murphy, TX

>I am sure that is where I first saw the idea, but I believe it was also in a magazine recently too.

Wendell

Thanks, everyone

mike recchione

>I guess I won't be ordering these. I had considered the solution suggested for the left end of the bench, but since I've always had an end vise on my other bench, I got used to doing thicknessing and smoothing without the face vise in the way - I always worked the faces of boards closer to the right end of the bench. But I guess I can get used to working close to the left end of the bench. This is probably the best solution.

I also considered the batten and clamps approach, which is not a bad one. But I have visions of smashing my hand into the clamp on the face of the bench.

Thanks again,

Mike

Re: mortised bench stop question

Bill Houghton, Sebastopol, CA

>My grandfather's bench stop was a piece of 2x3 fir that fit through a mortise in the benchtop (which was itself 2x12 fir that looked like it had previously been used as dunnage by a trucking company that shipped angry rhinos). The mortise was tight, so the stop was held in place entirely by friction. Tap it with a mallet, it moved up; tap it on the top of its little head, it moved down. Typically of my grandfather, the friction was perfect. I wish I had the skill to reproduce that simple a design.

Re: mortised bench stop question

Warren in PA

>I once used a bench that an old steel screw adjustable bench stop like the one pictured. At the time I liked the fact that I could put it at the height I wanted. The drawback was that the teeth marred the end grain. If I was planing something that mattered I had to put a block between the stop and the board.

When I made my own bench I made a 1X3 mortise in one plank and made a 1X3X6 stop out of beech. I planed the beech until it was a nice fit. It was not particularly difficult. In 25 years I have put a coat of shellac on the stop twice when it got too loose. Otherwise it adjusts quickly and easily. I was not expecting the stop to last this long.