Handcut dovetails revisitied....

Re: Handcut dovetails revisitied....

Ed Snow

>You do not need them on both sides of the board. By connecting the lines layed out by the pins with the saw, you will saw to the right spot on the back. Keep practicing, it is the only way to get it figured out.

Re: Handcut dovetails revisitied....

Joel

>real simple - I am assuming you now have the angled line of the tails marked on one side of the board. use a square to scribe a stright line over the edge of the board and then use a bevel to mark the other side. The key however is that the angle of all the tails may not be exactly consistent so what you have to do is set the bevel to the actual angle of each tail on the front face and then carry the setting back to the rear face. Of course lock the bevel, and check to make sure it didn't move after you lock it. There is always the potential of having to reset the bevel for every side of every tail but in practice unless you are massivly unlucky modt of the tails will be consistent and you can mark those all at once and then just have to custom set a few.

With practice and as you get more consistent you will find yourself using the rear lines to check yourself less and less and thats when you start thinking you can skip scribing the back. I'm not there yet.

Re: Handcut dovetails revisitied....

paul womack

>If you don't have a video or book describing the entire process, try these links...

They differ in details, but if you read/browse/skim all of them, you can see which techniques appeal to you.

Alan fousts DT link page

BugBear

Handcut dovetails jig *LINK*

Derek Cohen

>Ken

In addition to the advice given, you may find this jig of mine useful once you have marked the lines of the tails with a dovetail marker.

The jig will enable you to chisel to the line accurately on one side, then flip the board to chisel from the other side.

See the Link for more detailed information.

Regards from Perth

Derek




Handcut Dovetail Jig Mk II

Hey Derek

Steve Kubien

>What is the adjustable front board/fence for? Cool jig BTW.

Thanks,

Steve Kubien

Ajax, Ontario

Re: Handcut dovetails revisitied....

Alan Hamilton

>Ken,

You can always mark and cut the tails first. Half of the adult woodworking population does.

Alan

Re: Handcut dovetails revisitied....

Kevin French, Antrim NH

>Ken one other thing. Find yourself some #3 EX-hard pencils to make your marks. They don't dull as quick as a #2 and make fat lines and you can see them better then a knife mark. When you can cut a mean DT then go to a knife.

Re: Hey Derek

Derek Cohen

>Hi Steve

The adjustable front piece is a depth stop. It allows you to slide the end up against it, to the depth of the pin/tail. This then permits you to flip the board over and locate the same line on the other side.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Thanks all.

Ken Rozema - Whitby Ontario

>Thanks for the responses! They are a huge help.

Maybe I'll try cutting the tail first......

I'll post a pic once I manage to cut a nice one.

Thanks

KenR

Re: Hey Derek

Steve Kubien

>Well duh! That makes sense. Thanks.

Feelin' kinda dim in Ontario....

Steve Kubien

Dovetail cutting jig

Johanna in Placitas, New Mexico

>Here is one I made (as did most people in my dovetail class). It helps you start the cuts at exactly 90 degrees. Even though I can usually cut pretty straight, I've found that using the jig makes the cutting go much faster.

Re: Dovetail cutting jig - another view

Johanna in Placitas, New Mexico

>Sorry these are so blurry - I have a lousy camera! This view shows that there is sandpaper glued to the top and bottom pieces. The rods are much longer than necessary for this workbench, but that is because I also use the jig on a workbench with a deep apron.