Saw Question

Re: Saw Question

Adam Cherubini

>Gerry,

One of my favorite saws is gray and badly pitted. I guess pits can be a problem, but I don't see much difference. As for the reflection trick, its slightly bogus, and I can still see the reflection in my gray saws. (best to saw to two lines, face and edge)

To remove mongo rust, I start with a razor blade.

Adam

Re: Saw Question

Todd O. Cronkhite Maine Native in FL. Exile :~(

>Gerald,

I did the very same thing this weekend. I took the rustyest saw I could find, and brother this thing was SOLID, SOLID, SOLID rust. Scraped it with the razor blade which got off lots of rust dust, than went at it with the 150 grit, but had to go to coarser grit, than back to the finer grit. Used WD-40 on one side, and Mineral Spirits on the other. I perfer the Mineral Spirits. Sanded with a rubber block that is used in body work. As you say the blade is still a bit on the blackish side and yes there is some small pits, but it is smooth, smooth. I waxed it with Butchers. What surprised me the most is that it actually cut pretty well once it was cleaned up. I did removed the handle, but didn't have time to work on it so I put it back on for now. This is a nothing special crosscut, and I selected it for how rusty it was. Figured if I was going to have to go thru a learning curve it might as well be on this one. This one came out so well that I'm feeling really good about my less rusty saws. I just cannot get over the difference of this saw after cleaning. I worked on this saw for about an hour tops, which includes removing/installing the table the handle.

My next victim is a old thumbhole rip saw with a broken handle so that I can get some hands on experiance at sharpening.

Did you scrape with a razor blade?

Todd O.

Re: Saw Question

Gerald Doll

>Started with a razor, which removed the loose junk, especialy under the handle. However, the remainder of the blade is under a thick coat as black as a mother-in-laws soul.

I don't plan on putting this saw up in any beauty contests, but I would like to see If I can make out the printing on the blade, sharpen and put it to use.

By the way, What is the reflection trick?

Gerry

Re: Saw Question

William Duffield, on the Cohansey

>Slightly Bogus? Were training wheels on your first bicycle bogus?

The reflection helps, when you're getting started, but I don't know if I don't bother to look for it anymore, of if perpendicularity has just become automatic. Lately, a bent, as opposed to machined, back seems to throw me off more than lack of a reflection. So, yes, I agree, it's a bit bogus, at least in that it is unnecessary for sawing tight joints.

If you are cutting pins, (or is it tails?), the geometry is wrong, and it doesn't really help anyhow.

Re: Saw Question

Gerald Doll

>Todd,

Scraped with a razor, which took off the loose dust. What I'm down to now is that enamel like black coating you get on unloved carbon steel.

How far down in grit did you go? Using mineral spirits and 150 SC, still taking forever. I would really like to be able to make out the printing on the blade and not ruin the temper, which keeps me from going 'lectric or down too far in grit.

I don't have the set up for electrolysis, but this is making me think about it.

The only thing in my favor is that this is the worst of the bunch, i.e. rust and bending.

Gerry,

Discovering Rust Never Sleeps, it breeds at night

Re: Saw Question

Adam Cherubini

>You're better man than I Sir Wiiliam, but you don't need me to tell you that!

I'm just trying to say our friend shouldn't discard a saw becasue it isn't shiny.

The reflection thing is okay, but I prefer a different crutch. I mark two edges. When I'm ripping, I mark the end grain, then saw that corner out carefully. I know some of you more experienced guys can judge plum by eye. I'm not there yet!

Adam

Oops--Bad info given

Todd O. Cronkhite Maine Native in FL. Exile :~(

>Gerry,

I got home from work and double checked myself and sure enough I gave you some bad info---sorry.

I had started with 320 grit after scraping, but found it to be too fine, so I went to the 220 grit, than up to the 320 grit. As I said earlier, for lubricant I used WD-40 on one side, and Mineral Spirits on the other, and feel the Mineral Spirits did a better job. Had to rub a few strokes than wipe up the mess and re-apply the lubricant. Did this several times with with grit. I felt that I had got all I was going to with the 320 grit even tho it is still a bit black, and I am satisfied with the job. Fiqure with use it might shine up a bit more, but will never get to silver shiney again.

Some notes:

-When scraping, have the razor blade in a holder, and scrape at a very low angle.

-I used moderate pressure while "sanding".

-I filled an empty contact lens solution bottle with mineral spirits and found it to be the perfect applicator as the teensy-tiny hole really requlates the flow of liquid. I'm gonna round up a few more of those bottles for other liquids, such as the baby oil I use on my oil stones.

I think finding an etch on most of these saws are pretty slim. If the saw appears that it was used alot than chances are good that the etch has long since been worn off. Now, if you happen into a saw that appears to be still of full measurements than perhaps you'll bring up an etch. I have a few rips that I don't think where used much(as they have not been filed down much) that I am hoping to bring up an etch on. Not sure what grits I'll start with on these saws, but I'll start with real fine and work my way down into the coarser grits as required.

I will say again that you'd never know that this is the same saw that I had started with as the transformation is, well, dare I say breathtaking?

This saw was so rusty that I fully expected to find it to be rusted completely thru, and was quite surprised when I hit soild metal.

Sorry for the bad info earlier, I was going from memory, which by now I should know better than to do.

Todd O.

Re: Saw Question

Ernie Miller Topeka

>If you want that fresh of the show room shine you are going to have to get out the DA a hard felt pad and the automotive coumpound. I like to set the head on random but you have to be carefull or you will tear up the pads on the teeth. This also seems to make the etch pop better for some reason?

DA?

Gerry Doll

>Ernie,

Not familiar with that abbreviation. Would an auto buffer work? And what compound would you use?

While using the 150 grit SC, the etching is starting to appear, but barely discernible. Stopped at that point, afraid I would remove it with the 150 grit sc. Blade is still pretty black.

Gerry,

wondering how many tools can fit in the van down by the river

Re: DA?

Jack Guzman from Maine

>Gerry a DA is an auto body tool.The ones I'm familiar with run on air and are like a random orbital sander on steroids.---Jack

Re: Saw Question

Dale Stansbery

>The "reflection thing" is that when you're sawing,if the saw is perpendicular to the wood, the reflection of the wood on the saw will appear to continue in the same plane and line through the saw. In other words, the reflection will appear as a continuation of the wood. It works for me. I guess these other guys are experienced enough that it's more automatic for them.

Re: DA?

Ernie Miller Topeka

>Yes that is basically it Air driven snader. I use the white auto rubbing coumpound and a hard felt pad. An auto buffer might work but it will take longer. I wouldn't use a lambs wool pad though or you will have fuzz flying every where.

No Drama

Gerald Doll

>Todd,

Before getting your post, I went back at the saw with 150 sc.

It ate through the saw, my piece of junk bench (Been meaning to build a new one anyhow), and the garage floor. I'm posting this to you from half way to Oz (Figure I'll check with our friends in Perth).

Seriously, I noted that Master Taran and yourself note using a small bottle of mineral spirits. Any particular reason? I've been liberally sloshing it on the blade and making long lengthwise passes with the 150 grit. the process results in a large amount of orange mess but does not appear to reduce the effectiveness of the paper.

Gerry

Re: No Drama

William Duffield, on the Cohansey

>I use mineral spirits for about the same reason I use oil on an oil stone. It keeps the paper from clogging up and becoming ineffective before the abrasive has worn out. Note that you need to use a wet/dry paper with MS.