My Handsaws *LINK*

Re: My Handsaws

chichi

>Sweet looking saw. Can you describe the process of making a saw or how you learned to do this. I was thinking about doing the same thing.

Thanks,

Bob

Re: making saws  *LINK*

paul womack

>


http://www.norsewoodsmith.com/ww/stairsaw/saws.htm

Nice looking saws...

Scott Burr in Ben Lomond CA

>What did you pattern your handles after?

They look very good.

Re: Nice looking saws...

Joel Oswald

>I just found an old and good looking saw online, then blew it up. I rasped and filed it until it fit like a glove. I think it's from a disston saw.

Re: My Handsaws

chichi

>Joel,

Did you file the teeth by hand or did you just cut down and sharpen a donor saw?

Thanks,

Bob

Re: My Handsaws

Joel Oswald

>The first one , the dovetail saw, I cut the teeth and filed by hand. The second one, I had a old crosscut backsaw with the right ppi and resharpened it.

A question: I'm making a stair saw now, and I filed it with a fleam of 25 degrees, but its impossible to start. What I cannot figure out is should I increase the fleam to 30, or reduce to 15-20 degrees? I need to actually be able to start the cut. I'm thinking I should go down to 15 degrees, am i right?

Re: My Handsaws

Ted Shuck, Centennial, CO

>I have a homemade stairsaw that is difficult to start also. I think the problem is due to the abrupt end of the blade with the first tooth trying to dig in. You don't start other saws this way, you always have the wood in the middle of the blade with teeth either side.

I think a slightly breasted saw would work better for this purpose. You always see floor saws with a strong convex curve along the teeth. I think that a stairsaw would work better with enough curve to get the cut started with the center teeth before the end teeth get into the kerf.

I haven't tried this yet, as with so many other things that seem like good ideas before they are tried...

Ted

Re: My Handsaws

Joe Rogers, Northern Virginia

>Yes. The breasted blade would help. You may find that you need to reduce the tooth rake angle also.JR

Re: My Handsaws

Ernie Miller Topeka

>Nice saws they look good.

Re: My Handsaws

Bill Lowrance in Geneva

>Beautiful! The only thing left to do is etch an enigmatic logo on 'em to confound old-tool scavengers in the distant future...

Re: My Handsaws

Joel Oswald

>Ah, breasting, that should do it. I will try that next, if that does not work, I don't know what will.

Thanks a bunch for the help.

Re: breasted blades

Pam Niedermayer - Austin, TX

>Sure does help. I've got 3 azebiki for starting cuts mid-board, work great.

Pam

Re: breasted blades

Ted Shuck, Centennial, CO

>Pam,

Great input, thanks!

But, now you've got to explain why you have three of these. 8^).

Ted

Re: breasted blades

Pam Niedermayer - Austin, TX

>The first one was a Woodcraft machine made version. I liked it; so after the seminar with Yataiki I bought a small one of his from Misugi with a beautiful handle, also by Yataiki (actually, this handle was probably a gift from Kayoko). I liked that one so much that when a large Yataiki showed it's face on ebay at half price, I couldn't resist. When/if I get over the hassles of selling on ebay, I'll probably unload the machine made one.

Pam

Re: My Handsaws

Todd Stock

>I've run an auger bit into the corner between tread and riser, then chiseled out the corner. Gives a place for the tip of the saw to go when starting. A stair saw really needs to cut to a set depth - don't know if a breasted blade can finish the cut.

Re: My Handsaws

paul womack

>I think the problem is due to the abrupt end of the blade with the first tooth trying to dig in.

Intriguingly, I recently bought and restored a Disston 15 (26", 5 1/2 TPI, cross cut), with an essentially straight cutting edge (i.e. non-breasted).

But the first (approx) 5 teeth follow a tiny curve, with the first tooth being (approx) 4mm below the main line of teeth.

The saw was in very good condition, with all teeth present and uniform, so I'm assuming this was a deliberate modification, perhaps to stop the toe igging in (and causing a buckle) after an over vigorous back stroke.

BugBear

Re: My Handsaws

Ted Shuck, Centennial, CO

>Very good idea. Just "breast" the first few teeth, not the whole edge.

Thanks,

Ted