Sharpening question

Re: Sharpening question

Dave Mount

>Relative merits of stones stir great debates. . .however, if you're looking to stick your toe in the water (stone), the 800/4000 set sold by LV is an inexpensive entry point. The 800 stone is a thick brick, the 4000 a 1/2" stone glued to a plastic base. 4000 won't get you to mirror finish (more like homogenous to the naked eye, but not shiny), but you can get the 8000 stone separately, or just use SS for the last grit as a bridge until you decide if you want to go for the 8000 waterstone.

No affiliation (but a satisfied customer),

Dave

The answer is yes

Dan Donaldson

>I think that the best sharpening system is the one that you learn how to use well and stick with. Any of them can do a good job once you get used to it. I prefer the waterstones and the grits that you list should be good, but there are others that use scary sharp, oilstones, and maybe even a cinder block ;-) that can probably sharpen better than I. I also have a Tormek, but use it mainly for setting up an original bevel or fixing a chipped edge as it is a safe method and I am not very good with a dry grinder. I always go to the stones after the Tormek, and it does make a big difference, especially on plane blades. I don't believe that there is a "holy grail" for sharpening. Pick something and learn to use it and don't look back;-)

Just my $0.02

Re: Sharpening question

Todd Stock

>I go back and forth on SS and waterstones.

Lately, I've been using Norton stones while in the shop and Joel's SS lapping/finishing films when away. The Nortons address the issue I've had with the feel of other finishing stones, and the lapping/finishing films do a better job of keeping the edge from dubbing over when SS'ing.

These days, my best edges seem to come from the waterstones - Norton 1000 and 8000 grit; however, I'm certain that the King, Icebear, and Shapton stones would give the same edge at varying degrees of system cost and time required.

For A2 and the other harder alloys, the newer waterstone formulations and the lapping films would seem to be the way to go for a final edge.

Re: Sharpening question

Brent Smith

>I agree that the best system is the one you're most comfortable with.If you want to get into waterstones the grits you mentioned will do the job very well.I use Norton stones and am pleased with their performance.At 8000 you get a very good finished edge,but if it's a plane iron and I'm going to use it on highly figured wood, I go a step further.I use .5 and .25 micron water based diamond paste(from Joel at Tools for working wood)to get that final edge.Remember too, that waterstones need constant flattening or you're defeating the purpose.

Re: Sharpening question

Jim in Burlington Ontario

>I've had my Norton stones for several years now and really wouldn't trade them for sandpaper. Microabrasive paper is pretty costly. My trick to keeping the mess to a min is having a board to slide right on top of the bench that secures the stone's. I did buy LV stones first then upgraded to the quicker cutting Nortons.

Re: Sharpening question

Alan Hamilton

>Mike,

I'm not about to put in my oar on your specific question. There's often too much warmth around such issues. So instead I will launch a mini-highjack.

No matter what system you decide to use, spend a few more dollars for a strop--or two or three--and abrasives. I found an old barbers' strop in a used/antique/junk shop in Ashville North Carolina a few years ago; for five dollars, IIRC, I couldn't pass it up. It's one of my best investments.

I'm not sure that stropping makes all that much difference when I use it after a 6000 grit waterstone; it does improve the mirror-like appearance, but I'm not convinced stropping improves the sharpness. Where it really does lots of good is between sharpenings. When an edge begins to blunt, a few swipes on my strop quickly and easily puts it back in action.

I wouldn't do without my strops these days. I've long ago replaced the barbers' strop with ones more suitable for wood working tools (that strop is now a bathroom decoration) and I also have a selection of abrasives that will cut a little or a lot (a strop can remove more steel than you might think).

Alan

Re: Sharpening question

Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)

>Mike

Waterstones are definitely the go.

Several advantages: while the initial outlay is more, sandpaper is expensive and a continuing expense. Waterstones are actually less messy in my opinion - I'd rather deal with a little water than the grey dust from SS.

If I were you, I'd purchase a 800, 1200 and 8000. An 8000 should cut quickly enough to not require an intemediary stone. Certainly get a 4000 if you want (I have one) but it is not really necessary (I no longer use it). A slightly cheaper version is a 6000 instead of the 8000. I don't think that the difference is that significant, especially if you hone the polishing stone with Veritas green rouge. I find that excellent (takes the edge a step upward).

My last recommendation is to read the method used by David Charlesworth (he of the long hair). DC has done a wondeful job of reducing the sharpening process into simple, very quick steps. His emphasis on microbevels is definitely a step in the right direction. My only problem here is that I must forgo freehand sharpening and return to using a guide.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Re: Sharpening question

MikeG

>Derek and others -

I really appreciate your advice. I thinl I'll pick up a couple of stones to start (1000 and 6000 or 8000) and supplement the grits with paper for now.

One other question, is there any advice on the combination stones versus single grit stones?

Thanks again for everyone's input.

Mike

Re: Sharpening question

Tony - Memphis

>I'm about a half step ahead of you. I used to use sandpaper. But, after using the Norton Water stones at Lonnie Bird's school, I was sold. I bought the set online at...well, it escapes me...the online place that sells hand tools....the owner is online here...help me out somebody! The price was the best I found. Comes with 4 stones. I think it is 220, 1000, 4000, and 8000. They work great. Better than sandpaper IMHO. I follow the 8000 with the Lee Valley green compound on mdf.

Tony