Re: Preparing stock
Dean J in MN
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I know this is the hand tool side but how many here prepare their stock by hand? ... I only have a LV LA Jack. Do I need more planes (just say yes so I have an excuse to buy more) or can I get by with it.
You always need more planes, right? I prepare all my stock by hand, I think you'll find a lot of folk on this side do as well. And as mentioned you'll find a lot of techniques and debate as well. For me, a scrub or fore (jack) plane, followed by a try plane is what I use for face jointing. The smoother comes later after the parts are ready to be assembled. Edge jointing depends on what that edge is used for. If I'm not edge jointing for a glue joint I just use the try plane and call it good.
My next project is a Shaker side table. For a project this small (18"x18" top, 28" legs) do you think I could get by with a scrub and a LA Jack? Can the Jack be used as a smoother and to joint shorter pieces?
Well, I think this project is a good one to start learning hand stock prep. Little tables have taught me a lot about working by hand. One of the lessons they teach is you really have no need for 4 square stock prep in this project. That fact will save you time yet still teach a lot of the techniques of stock prep. This may also mean leaving behind what you have learned on the machine side. The aprons need only one flat face, the insides can be left rough, and there isn't any need to thickness your apron stock at all. The edges of the aprons need only be roughly square to the face as you aren't making a glue joint. It is best to surface a single board long enough to cut all your aprons out of. This saves you time making each apron the same width. If that single board is ripped to width first, all your aprons match by default. The top again needs only one flat (and this can be just close) face, and only roughly thicknessed (so you don't twist the legs/apron when you attach the top). The legs need only two edges square to each other (the faces which you will later cut your mortises in), the other faces just have to be close enough to please you.
Can you do the project with just your Jack? Sure. But it probably isn't the most efficent use of your energy.
A scrub is nice, but a jack with a cambered blade and a wide mouth will get you there as well. That is the first plane you face joint with. Then a longer try plane to even that surface out -- this plane has less camber on the blade.
The catch for you (with only the jack) is the jointer, a plane with no camber on the blade. (A "jointer" with a cambered blade is really a try plane). You will need to edge joint boards to make your top and will need a plane which can do this. On a short top the length of the jack you have is doable, but the blade should have no camber. So in a pinch a second blade, used for glue jointing can be put in your jack. I have a long wooden jointer, and use this plane to make edge glue joints. I clamp the two boards face to face and use this plane until I get full length and width shavings. When you unfold the boards you are left with a nice joint. A cambered blade does not work for this.
So, you picked a great first project... Rob's video covers the use of winding sticks, etc. Take what you can from the video but keep in mind he 4 squared that sample piece. You can stop after the face is flat and out of wind (for your aprons) and you don't need to sweat the thicknessing of your top, just get it close. If you plan on cutting a bevel on the underside of the table you have a little more freedom on thicknessing step. If you are going to have a square edge top you will probably spend a bit more time.
Welome to Hand Tools!
-Dean
