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Chisel making problems

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Chisel making problems

#1

Chisel making problems

Svante Nilsson

>Hi,

It shure was a very time consuming job to form the chisel steel (rip, cut, grind and finally lap).

After hardening and cryo treatment I began the final touch work but ran into two problems:

I use Norton water stones to flatten the chisel backs. For other tasks they have worked fine but now the 1000 grid stone clogged very quickly and stopped cutting. Anybody have experienced the same problem?

The seckond problem is more related to vanety. After hardening, the steel has a dull grey-brown-black look. Is there an easy way to give them a black colour, like the Japaneese chisels?

Thanks,

Svante

Re: Chisel making problems

#2

Re: Chisel making problems

Todd Hughes

>Both problims sound like you have scale left on the chisels from when you hardned them. Wire brush or take some sandpaper on a stick to them and should take care of it.Don't know what you mean about wanting the steel to be "black" I would think you would want them to be bright....Todd

Re: Chisel making problems

#3

Re: Chisel making problems

Svante Nilsson

>After the heat treatment the steel has a dark coloured surface - it is not a brittle scale that easily falls off.

To have the chisel shining would be nice - but that requires too much work. Is there a way to colour them black like Japaneese chisels?

Regards,

Svante

Re: Chisel making problems

#4

Chisel metal color

gtools

>Liquid gun blue or Plum brown barrel finish will prob give you the finish your looking for. Its not expensive and easy to use. gtools..........

Re: Chisel making problems

#5

Re: Chisel making problems

Chad Boehlke

>Sand paper woks the best with metal. As a blacksmith I use files to shape my steel. To flatten the back, use a file as a draw knife and work your way from rough to smoth file.

Re: Chisel making problems

#6

????

Todd Hughes

>I think if the back of a chisel you made is soft enough after you have hardend and tempered it so that you can use a file to flatten it you may wish to re examine your blacksmithing techniques ! .....Todd

Re: Chisel making problems

#7

Re: Coarser stone for flattening

Dave Mount

>I think a 1000 stone is way too fine for initial flattening. I use a 220 diamond stone for the initial lapping if it's anything but essentially flat to begin with. Once you have it even at the coarse grit, it's only a minute or so to have the coarse scratches removed on the 1000 stone.

YMMV,

Dave

Re: Chisel making problems

#8

Re: Coarser stone for flattening

Mike Swindell

>When I flatened the backs of some old chisels and cast steel plane blades I used 80 grit long board paper that body shops use. Worked very fast, like within 5 minutes a 2 1/2" plane blade was flat, then went to diamond plates. I agree 1000 grit is way too fine to start flattening.

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