Est. 1998 — 27 years of woodworking knowledge
plane blade laterally curved
alan womack
>Whilst trying to flatten the back of a No 8 plane blade I have, I noticed it was curved across the width.
So the front is slightly concave and the back slightly convex. I didn't run a feeler under, but light escape checking with a starrett square I estimate maybe .001.
Wonder how to straighten that out across the blade. Maybe a few whacks with a ball pen on the convex high point?
Alan
Re: plane blade laterally curved
Richard Gillespie
>Hitting the blade with a ball-peen hammer on the convex side may worsen the problem, especially if you hit it with the ball end. Denting the metal causes it to spread out. This would result in making the curve worse. IMHO it you are going to try this, I would use a block of some kind on top of the blade and have the underside fully supported by a flat surface.
Re: plane blade laterally curved
Jack Guzman from Maine
>I was cleaning up a rough #5 stanley and noticed that the blade was bowed like yours. I tried to flatten it by laying the blade bow up on a hard flat surface and hitting it a few times with the flat of a ball peen hammer.The blade split right down the middle.Now I have a couple pieces of blade stock for future homemade tools.Just a little warning.---Jack
Re: plane blade laterally curved
Joel
>.001" is not a lot - you should be able to remove that in a minute or two using a coarse diamond stone. Trying to bend hardened steel seems like a sure way to crack it.
Heat
Ron Parsons SE NM
>Carefully apply some heat to the middle or high point of the convex side and let it cool. The blade will warp and then return as it cools. Keep tiring until you get it straight.
Re: plane blade laterally curved
Todd Stock
>Joel's got the flick - concave side first on a diamond stone, then careful work on the convex.
You could anneal the blade, play whack-a-mole, then reharden, but chances are you'd end up with as much of a flattening job as if you just go at it per Joel's suggestion.
Re: plane blade laterally curved
Joel
>Do you really have to worry about the convex side? I would only flatten the tip of the concave size and leave the convex side alone. Clamping the blade in the plane will probably get it to set correctly (actually how do we know that the bed of the plane is less than .001" out anyway. ) I certainly don't think it's worth spending a lot of time on the convex side until you see how well the plane works.
Re: plane blade laterally curved
Todd Stock
>Alan's post mentioned that the back was convex, so probably needs at least the tip done (as you indicated), assuming the chipbreaker will seat OK.
As for the bevel (concave) side of the blade, I think the connection with the frog would be the issue, but you are probably right that .001 will be handled by a well-fitted CB and pressure from the lever cap.