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Est. 1998 — 27 years of woodworking knowledge

Need a tree taken down or milled?

Water Stones. Again. Sorry.

Posts

Water Stones. Again. Sorry.

#1

Water Stones. Again. Sorry.

Joe in a Cleveland suburb

>Hi folks. Me again... sorry to butt in. I don't wander over here too often, I use mostly power tools.

Earlier this week I asked about getting a combo waterstone to try sharpening like Christopher Schwarz wrote about in last falls WoodWorking Magazine. This first two issues were great, btw.

Well, I bought a 1000/6000 combo from www.japanwoodworker.com. I tried to order from somebody who supported Elllis, but couldn't find a 1000/6000 combo. I hope this is a good stone and I hope it works good. I hope this technique/stone will work with plane irons as well.

I have to admit, using a really sharp plane or chisel is a neat feeling. Hey. Can somebody tell me how to make one of those bow saw thingies, I'd like to try that for resawing... Maybe I should come over here more often... :)

Thanks for your help!

Joe

Re: Water Stones. Again. Sorry.

#2

Re: Water Stones. Again. Sorry.

William Duffield, on the Cohansey

>For resawing, you'd probably be happier using a frame saw. Look in the Articles for description of one I built.

If you want to build a bowsaw too, also very useful, look at BugBear's website.

Bow Saw

For instant gratification, and a bow saw you will love to use, you can buy a very fine one from Dave Anderson, at Chester Tool Works.

Re: Water Stones. Again. Sorry.

#3

Plane making question

Frank D. in Montreal

>Hi everyone,

I'm about to start making a wooden (mostly) plane and I'm shopping around for the blade. I have the intention of making a bevel-up plane and I wanted to use a Japanese blade. I went to look at a few blades today but one detail struck me that I hadn't thought of before: the hollow grind (ura?) on the back of the blade means that I'll lose a whole lot, if not most, of useful bedding under the blade. Considering that the back of the blade near the cutting edge is only flat for 1/16 or 3/32" or so, that means the blade will only be supported by the sides. I was also looking at overall flatness, and since Japanese blades are usually meant to go bevel down, the backs aren't too flat.

Should I abandon the idea of making a BU plane with a Japanese blade? Does it matter if there is little or no support along the entire cutting edge except at the sides of the blade?

Any advice (even if only to say I'm a fool :) ) is appreciated.

Frank Desaulniers

👍 This page answered my questions

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