Beading plane vs beading tool

Re: Beading plane vs beading tool

Alan Hamilton

>Jim,

I have a Lie-Nielsen beading tool--along with a Stanley #45, a Stanley #12-250 (which is sort of, kind of, a stripped down #45) and one of those Clico/Clifton combination plane. I've had lots of fun time making beads with all of them, though some are certainly less fun than others.

Making beads with a #45--or trying to--I feel your pain. Of my four bead-making implements, the Stanley #45 is my least favorite. It's too fussy, and even when all the necessary fussing is done, it's too finicky; it rarely works well enough, or long enough, for me to have fun.

My favorite beader is...TA DAAAA...my Stanley #12-250. Of my three combination planes it is the easiest to set up and use. So long as the iron is sharp and I'm taking an appropriately fine cut, it easily sails through most everything: hardwood or softwood, well behaved or unruly, it works.

My Clifton, too, works extremely well making beads. It would be my favorite were it not so fussy to set up. But once it's had all its screws turned, it too is easy sailing.

Not as much fun as my Clifton or Stanley #12-250, but more fun than my Stanley #45, is my Lie-Nielsen beading tool. It's the easiest to set up--no difficult fussing is required--and it's easy to use. It works a little too slow for me to use it out of the gate, but I regularly use it after a plane to smooth beads that are a little too rough. I also use it for curved edges--obviously--and where I need greater control, or where I need to stop or start somewhere other than the corner.

So...if I have to reccommend something: first, try to find a Stanley #12-250. I don't think Stanley is making them these days, but you still might be able to find a new one somewhere. Second, get the Lie-Nielsen. Lastly, save your pennies and get a Clifton; my Clifton is a wonderful tool, it's very capable and is a pleasure to use--once it's set up. As for your Stanley #45...well, if you can't say anything nice...sell it to get enough for a down payment on a brand new Clifton.

Alan (the windbag--as usual)

make your own

Dennis

>Do a search for scratch stock.

Dennis,who had nice warm day in south florida

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Re: make your own

Jim in Burlington Ontario

>Dennis I have made several scratch stocks and find it's just to much work for a short lived tool.

Re: Beading plane vs beading tool *LINK*

Wendell @ Murphy, TX

>Tony Murland out the UK always has a "Harlequin Side Beads" set listed on his website. This is a set of 8 side beads from 1/8" to 1" in 1/8" increments from different makers. The cost including shipping is $175. I haven't bought the side beads from Tony yet (though I've been tempted), but I did buy a set of wooden dado planes from him. The planes were very nice, well packed, and arrived about a week and half after I ordered them. Tony is very responsive to emails if you have any questions.

Wendell - no affliation to Tony Murland, just a satisfied customer.

PS - click under wooden planes to find the side bead set.


Tony Murland's Toolbox

Re: Beading plane vs beading tool

Richard Laing

>I had a need for a beading tool so I copied the one sold by Lee Valley (sorry Rob Lee!) and bought their beading blades. It has worked out well. It was a good exercise and cost very little.

i like it

Dennis

>Well done and a tool with heart me thinks

Dennis

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Re: Beading plane vs beading tool

Jack Guzman from Maine

>I made a scratch stock following an example on Bugbear's website.I use pieces of old sawblade for cutters.I cut out a chunk using heavy metal snips,put it in a vice and file to shape.It takes no more than 5 or 10 minutes for a simple bead profile.---Jack

Re: Beading plane vs beading tool

Jim in Burlington Ontario

>That's a great link looks like they have some real bargains to get into the wooden moulding planes.

longevity?

paul womack

>...too much work for a short lived tool.

I don't understand. My scratch stock shows no signs of wearing out. I've also only got 2 stocks. My original, and the "fancy" one.

The main pay-off between a scratch stock is ease of making a new shape (where the scratch stocks) versus cutting performance (where the "proper" plane wins).

The decision would therefore seem to pivot on how much beading/moulding you have to do.

I would recommend a moveable fence design though; they are dramatically easier to live with.

For more detailed thoughts, here's my scratch stock page

BugBear

Ditto; also get York pitch

Jim Reed @Tallahassee

>on the 12-250. I don't know why it does better beads than a #45, but it does. Maybe it is the newer blades. I also use a #66 and like it--quicker than one might think.

Trouble is that most beaders (like the #45) are pitched for softwoods (carpentry). You need a York pitch for less tearout in hardwoods. Pitch is why the #66 works so well on hardwoods.

Re: Beading plane vs beading tool

Ernie Miller Topeka

>I ordered that set of 50 misc. planes from him over a year ago and got several side beades in the set along with some hallows and rounds a few bodgers and some complex molders. He was off on a buying trip and Nina took all the info they needed and he pulled the planes when he returned. I was very happy and will probably buy another set soon.

Re: Beading plane vs beading tool------------0xKhT *LINK*

Chad Boehlke------------0xKhTmLbOuNdArY

>I make molding planes for others.

------------0xKhTmLbOuNdArY


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Re: Ditto; also get York pitch

kenc

>Jim,

York pitch should be considered the bare minimum in a moulding plane. I have a set of Buck hollows that are middle pitch (55degrees) and I wouldn't want to go any less than that for hardwoods.

There's also 'half pitch' which is 60degrees, however I've never handled one of those so can't comment really.

Ken

Using Opera?

Dan Donaldson

>Check the FAQ for how to eliminate the heiroglyphics.;-)