Planing without a blade

Dang! I'm Still Trying to Learn

Bob Hutchins in Central Texas

>how to sharpen the iron and NOW you tell me I've gotta learn how to sharpen the chip breaker, too.

Chipbreaker planes jarrah, eh?

BobH

Re: Planing without a blade

Lyn J. Mangiameli

>No let's see, was that a convex, high angle, bevel up chipbreaker? :-)

Re: Planing without a blade

William Duffield, on the Cohansey

>Let's look at your configuration a different way. What you are saying is that you put the thin, flexible blade on top, raised both the effective cutting angle and the relief angle, and put the thin, flexible blade stiffener underneath, extending the support for the cutter well beyond the end of the frog, which was always a serious problem with the Bailey design. And, you didn't need to increase the thickness of your cutter to gain these advantages. Fascinating. You'd probably be wise to make sure you aren't violating any recent plane patents with any of these innovations, before you try to sell any of these.

Re: Planing without a blade

Greg Sloop, Portland OR

>A screwdriver, bevel up and down simultaneously, held down with a Taiwanese pair of "vice-grips" does almost as well in my triple blind, placebo controlled studies. (The guy pushing the plane and judging the samples is actually blind.)

Cheers,

Greg

Re: informative

paul womack

>Actually, pushing a plane without a blade can be remarkably informative about how much of your effort is going into frction between the sole and the workpiece, and how much into cutting.

A non lubricated #5 generates a horrible amount of drag.

Try it.

BugBear

Re: informative

Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)

>Ok Bugbear, but you'll have to loan me a #5 as I do not own one. Does this experiment work with other planes? :)

Regards from Perth

Derek

Re: informative

david charlesworth

>Paul,

That is why the metal polish & wire wool is so useful as the last stage of 'plane sole lapping'. It reduces the frictional drag significantly.

I finish lapping larger planes on blunt 240 grit wet & dry or maybe 320, and then scrub hard with Autosol/Peek/MAAS, chrome polish and 0000 wire wool.

Also as I use Camellia oil as a routine when putting tools to bed, there is a small trace left even after the excess has been removed with the "oil removing cloth" which sits on my bench.

0000 ww & metal polish is also a wonderful way of removing the first traces of rust or tarnish.

David Charlesworth

Thinking of a new study, Lyn?

Don Thompson - Cutler Ridge, Florida

>

What sort of metal polish do you prefer?

Don Thompson - Cutler Ridge, Florida

>

?

Clay C in Miami

>I didn't think he flipped the iron/breaker over, just that the breaker had slipped down past the edge of the iron ...

Clay

Re: ?

William Duffield, on the Cohansey

>Yes, of course, I was just adding a little more twisted humor. The blade was not performing any cutting action in that configuration, but it still was an important part of the system, and contributed to the results he reported, if only to support and dampen the vibrations of the finely honed and tuned cap iron. If you don't think so, you might try another experiment: remove the cutter entrirely and attempt to plane using the cap iron alone.

density

Clay C in Miami

>Sorry to not recognize the humor, Sir W - sometimes I miss it in cold print ... and, much of the time I can just be so incredibly dense that light will bend around me.

Clay

Re: What sort of metal polish do you prefer?

david charlesworth

>Don,

I use Autosol which is sold in car acessory shops here, (in a tube).

However any brand will probably do.

Tormek leather wheel honing past is also fine.

best wishes

David Charlesworth

Re: What sort of metal polish do you prefer?

paul womack

>David said:

...then scrub hard with Autosol/Peek/MAAS, chrome polish...

Googling gives...

http://www.totalmotorcycle.com/reviews/AutosolReview.htm

http://www.caswellplating.com/aids/peek.html

http://www.maasinc.com/faq.html

Since chrome is so hard, the polishes for it are the most aggressive, and hence useful for performing substantial work. I wouldn't use them on the family silver ;-)

I second David's tip of chrome polish on 0000 wire wool for removing rust.

BugBear

Re: What sort of metal polish do you prefer?

Don Thompson - Cutler Ridge, Florida

>Hi Bug,

I think we had this conversation a few years ago. Those brands are not available here, but there are USA domestic equivalents to be found at auto parts stores, I believe. There is/was a tube-dispensed German chrome polish that I used to use on my 'cycles years ago, the name of which escapes me.

Thanks,

Don

Re: What sort of metal polish do you prefer?

paul womack

>Those brands are not available here, but there are USA domestic equivalents to be found at auto parts stores

Indeed. There should be sufficient information in the links I found to either source the same product, or accurately identify an equivalent.

And, hey, you Stateside guys need to bear this brand-name thing in mind next you casually talk of brushing on a coat of Watco...

BugBear

Simichrome.

Bob Hackett

>

Re: What sort of metal polish do you prefer?

John Meikrantz

>Maas is available here in the US. They sell it by the tube at Walgreen's (drugstore chain). There are a number of polishes/cleaners that I see in the auto parts stores, and I'm tempted to give them a try sometime, i.e. Mother's, Blue Magic, Nev'rDull, etc. If only there was some way to differentiate, based on formulation, etc. It is all closely held information, though.

John

That's it.

Don Thompson - Cutler Ridge, Florida

>