Re: How to pick a tree for lumber
Adam Cherubini, NJ
>Dan,
Milling lumber more efficiently than a mill is difficult. IMHO, or at least in my specific situation, its tough to justify this sort of work financially. The mill is often paid for, the guys don't make that much money. I find it cheaper to pay the mill to saw, dry, and store the lumber. Then I can show up and pick only the best boards from a number of trees.
That said, were I in your situation, I'd look for something I couldn't readily buy in a mill. For example: I just realized my inlaw's house in the poconos is surrounded by beech trees. If you could find a beech and split it, that riven green beech would be worth a good deal of money for plane blanks, wooden workbench screws, and the like. Would be easy to sell such pieces to folks here.
The other thing I would look for would be a big black walnut, or black cherry. If you could get some wide straight flitches out of it for coffee tables, dining tables etc, that would be worth your while.
I'd avoid oak since its common enough and cheap. That is unless you haven't got a shave horse. If you haven't got a shave horse and are even remotely interested in making one, I'd select a nice red oak and get a copy of Roy's book that has the instructions in it.
Another idea would be to find white oak for a new workbench. Might be fun to make some 4x4's for legs and massive quartersawn beams to make up the top. Not sure where I could go to find such lumber. Of course it has to sit for many years.
One more thing: (and maybe this was really your question) Look for a tree whose bark is not twisted, growing or more or less on flat ground, that has a lot of competition for sunlight (forested). The first branches should be pretty high.
Cut it soon as spring sap will start flowing soon. Try to saw as far thru as possible to reduce felling stresses.
goodluck,
Adam