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Making a Striking Knife *LINK*

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Making a Striking Knife *LINK*

#1

Making a Striking Knife *LINK*

Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)

>Adam�s recent article on Striking Knives was excellent, both in terms of its historical significance and for its technical usefulness. Thank you, Adam.

If you have not read the article, see the Link below.

I have a couple of Japanese marking knives as well as an awl that I converted from a turnscrew (pictures below). However, when Adam stated that �It�s rare but possible to find striking knives in the wild �failing that I recommend seeking a blacksmith ..�, I took this as a challenge :).

Looking at one of his pictures, I said to myself �there is striking knife inside every spade drill bit�. So I took to a couple with a grinder. It was fun. Below is the result.

I made right- and left hand versions. Well, I was going to make a right-hand and V-version, but stuffed up the latter and it became a left-hand version.

The (right-hand version) blade is 9/16� wide (cut from a 1� wide spade bit), angled at 15 degrees and the bevel is ground at 25 degrees, all as per article recommendations. It is sharp enough to pare pine end grain. However, it does not leave as deep an impression as the Japanese knives do. I�m not sure if I am using it correctly. The Japanese knives mark by scoring with the tip. As one can see in the picture, these knives are pointy and sharp. The striking knife left a clean line but it was faint by comparison (understandably, there is less down force when it is distributed the length of the blade).

Adam, does one keep the blade edge flat (as I did) or should it be tipped onto the point (as with the Japanese knives)? The other question I have is about the length of the blade. Yours is about 3 times the length of mine. Is there a reason for the length? With my left-handed version, which ended up much shorter than planned, it is nevertheless much easier to use this way. Also, I made the blade angle closer to 20 degrees, which I find is a more natural action. However I recall you saying that a striking knife should not be gripped as if it were a pencil.

The awls score beautiful lines, and I�m going to use them when I mark out dovetails in future.

Regards from Perth

Derek


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Adam's article

Re: Making a Striking Knife *LINK*

#2

Good idea and

Dennis

>well done. Hard for me to like the double end tool idea but now the marking knifes are cool.

Dennis,who is on 2nd pot of coffee this morning

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Re: Making a Striking Knife *LINK*

#3

Re: Using a Striking Knife

Adam Cherubini

>does one keep the blade edge flat (as I did) or should it be tipped onto the point (as with the Japanese knives)?

Tipped, as you say, with 15-30 degrees clearance angle. This low angle is like the difference between a pin marking gauge, and cutting gauge. The low angle on the knife forces you to hold the knife vertically, which has some ergonomic advantages in the western shop.

The other question I have is about the length of the blade. Yours is about 3 times the length of mine. Is there a reason for the length?

I don't think it makes one whit of difference. I think its helpful to hold the flat blade to aid in steering the knife.

Also, I made the blade angle closer to 20 degrees, which I find is a more natural action. However I recall you saying that a striking knife should not be gripped as if it were a pencil.

Look. There certainly isn't only one acceptable striking knife design. Though all the period knives I have seen have these low skew angles. But 15, or 20 degrees is in the noise.

The awls score beautiful lines, and I�m going to use them when I mark out dovetails in future.

FWIW, I've found having a slender awl advantageous when marking DT's. When you make a knife, try to make a slender awl end.

If you look in Salaman, you'll see knives with wooden scales.You might try that. Sometimes they look like wooden balls.

Adam

Re: Making a Striking Knife *LINK*

#4

Very cool...

Scott Burr in Ben Lomond CA

>Nifty idea using a spade bit. I have a few trashed ones. Now I know what to do with them;)

Thanks for showing us!

Re: Making a Striking Knife *LINK*

#5

Re: Very cool...

Dan Donaldson

>They also work as material for scratch stock. I have just ground te profile in the bottom of the blade, left them whole other than that and used they without a handle.

Re: Making a Striking Knife *LINK*

#6

Re: Very cool...

Dan Donaldson

>They also work as material for scratch stock. I have just ground the profile in the bottom of the blade, left them whole other than that and used them without a handle. The detail on the inside edge of the frame in the attached picture was done with one.


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Re: Making a Striking Knife *LINK*

#7

Good to know

Scott Burr in Ben Lomond CA

>Thanks Dan! Wonder if their too thick for a Stanley beader...

Nice frame BTW

Re: Making a Striking Knife *LINK*

#8

Re: Good to know

Dan Donaldson

>Don't know about the Stanley beader as I don't have one. Thanks for the frame comment. That was my first real attempt at making something with carving on it. It was done after doing a bunch of practice pieces which Lee Grindinger was gracious enough to critique for me. I got the basic egg and dart design from an article that Lee did for FWW.

Re: Making a Striking Knife *LINK*

#9

Re: lathe tool

Kurt Loup, Baton Rouge

>I've ground a spade bit for a bead cutting lathe tool. Works great.

Kurt


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Re: Making a Striking Knife *LINK*

#10

Question for Bob Smalser *LINK*

Jonathan Peck - N.Y.

>"If you look in Salaman, you'll see knives with wooden scales.You might try that. Sometimes they look like wooden balls"

I was just thumbing through Bob Smalser's Articles and spied this little beauty with a wooden scale. Bob, is this one home grown?


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Mortises By Hand

Re: Making a Striking Knife *LINK*

#12

Re: Making a Striking Knife alternative

Pam Niedermayer - Austin, TX

>Bought a skewed rebate/dado/shoulder plane. It's made of boxwood, and I bought it to cut up for making very small planes (it's old, but there's no maker's mark). So when it arrived today, I immediately took the blade out (OK, I always do this, but with a different motivation). Looks like it would make a perfect striking knife, just needs a bit of grinding to make the end sharp, or use it as is.

It would work for me. It does leave a very light "line," so I'd probably dull it down a bit before heavy use.

Pam

Re: Making a Striking Knife *LINK*

#13

Re: Making a Striking Knife alternative

Tony Zaffuto

>Brilliant idea Pam!

I've been toying with the idea of making a striking knife since reading the Adam's article. Problem was what to use.

I didn't like the idea of a file, and could see making one out of hardenable tool steel flat stock could be problematic, without being equipped to fully shape the tool. But I got some old woodies that have blades that would be just the ticket!

Tony Z.

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