Hand plane terminology

Re: Hand plane terminology *LINK*

Andy Lincoln,In Dearborn MI

>Dan,

try this link and see if it helps.


http://www.antique-used-tools.com/comparts.htm

somewhat, but...

Dan K`

>I tried the Stanley dating site at:

http://www.hyperkitten.com/tools/stanley_bench_plane/dating/

Their page indicates it's a type 15, but the results below don't match the plane.

# "MADE IN U.S.A." is now cast behind the frog.

# All patent info on the bottom casting is removed.

# "BAILEY" is now cast behind the knob toward the rib, and the number is now cast in front of the knob at the leading edge of the bottom casting. This is opposite to all prior types.

The differences are:

the USA cast is just behind the knob handle, not behind the frog,

"BAILEY" is in front of the knob, and

"No. 7" is behind the handle.

It does have a raised ring for the knob. But other than that I'm thoroughly confused.

Re: somewhat, but...

Jack Guzman from Maine

>The plane dating and typeing information is general.Stanley didn't always go by their own rules.Things got done differently at various times for different reasons.Don't take it word for word.Just my experience.---Jack

Re: somewhat, but...

Dan K`

>OK will do. Thanks for the help guys!

Re: somewhat, but...

Dale Stansbery

>A lot of old planes show up with a mix of various vintage parts as well, commonly referred to here as Frankenplanes, adding even more confusion to what they are.

Type number valuable for collectors

Bill Houghton, Sebastopol, CA

>but not necessarily as significant for users. The true test is whether it works.

I have some non-collectorish cues that I use for deciding whether to buy a bench plane or not (leaving aside "is it cheap"*), including:

1. Is the tote (the rear, more or less S-shaped handle) full oval or does it have flat sides? Yes = good.

2. When you look just in front of the tote, do you see a screw attached to the frog (on which rests the iron, or blade, or part that actually cuts, all else being a part the supporting cast)? Yes = good.

3. Is it without pitting-level rust or cracks? Yes = good.

4. If it's a Stanley plane, is the paint color blue or red? Yes = bad.

There may be others that I've forgotten. Aside from this, whether something is Type 11 or Type 27 seems to me not too important. As I have commented on other threads, my best ever bench plane is a Montgomery Ward Master. Those who grew up in the 1950s when Montgomery Ward was still a viable business will be busy suppressing shudders, but it's a darn good plane (made by someone other than Mr. Ward, probably Stanley). But its provenance is less important than its peformance.

This leaves aside Bedrock planes, detectable by the flat top on the curved area beside the iron - because they're so rare here on the Left Coast that I've never seen one in the wild; and of course infills.

*I've actually reached sufficiency with bench planes after some years of looking and buying, and probably wouldn't buy another in the common sizes unless it fit the dual characteristics of really sweet and really cheap - except for a Bedrock or infill. But I offer the above, for what it's worth, for those at the other end of the toolkit process.

Bill, waiting for the elusive $1 Spiers smoother

Re: Hand plane terminology *LINK*

Don Thompson - Cutler Ridge, Florida

>Bob Kaune sells Stanley plane parts, and by perusing the diagrams and part lists, you can probably improve your knowledge of the parts names.


Bob Kaune Plane Parts