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Marking gauge questions *LINK*

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Marking gauge questions *LINK*

#1

Marking gauge questions *LINK*

Bill Houghton, Sebastopol, CA

>Two questions:

1. Colen Clenton makes a pencil gauge in which a pencil serves in place of a point or cutter (see Joel's catalog description at the link). What are the advantages or uses of a pencil gauge?

2. At some garage sale or other, I picked up a neat mortise gauge on which the beam consists of one section nested within a U-shaped second section (see really bad drawing, below). The points seem to have been driven into a blind hole - that is, they don't go all the way through - and are just about worn out, without even enough material to grab with vise-grips. Any magic techniques for removing them?

Bill, picked up yet another 10" brace yesterday - why? Lakeside brand, pretty clean. Anyone need any 10" braces?


img

What Joel says about Clenton's gauges

Re: Marking gauge questions *LINK*

#2

Jack Guzman from Maine

Re: Marking gauge questions

Jack Guzman from Maine

>Bill,why not just grind them flush and inset new ones along side them?---Jack

Re: Marking gauge questions *LINK*

#3

Re: Marking gauge questions

Bill Houghton, Sebastopol, CA

>I may do that, though there's not a lot of extra space in the beam due to the nesting of the two sections.

Of course, I could just make a new beam, which is kind of like putting a new hammer head on the new handle that I put on the old hammer head before the head broke. Maybe I'll just adapt the idea and start from scratch, if redrilling for new points doesn't work.

Re: Marking gauge questions *LINK*

#4

Re: Marking gauge questions

Bill Lowrance

>Why not just drill a teeny hole from behind them, then just punch the pins out the front?

Re: Marking gauge questions *LINK*

#5

Re: Marking gauge questions

Bill Houghton, Sebastopol, CA

>Ah...and if I drill it the right size, it will serve to be the hole through which I push the new pins. Thanks.

Re: Marking gauge questions *LINK*

#6

Re: Marking gauge questions

Bill Lowrance in Geneva

>Right. But because it's bound to be tricky aligning the entry from the blind side, I'd first probe with a really fine little drill to make contact, then adjust sideways as necessary when enlarging the hole.

Also, maybe you could set-in the new point in such a way that you can extend it from time to time as it wears down (setscrew? wedge?), unless you want to preserve the original design exactly.

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