UPdate of infill plane making

Re: UPdate of infill plane making

Gary Smyth

>Don't panic. If you make the change and it works, well, 1. you have a perfectly servicable plane and 2. you will have the satisfaction of manufacture and 3. generations from now it will be so rare that it might be the most sought after plane ever. Keep good records. Best wishes.

Re: UPdate of infill plane making

Joe Rogers, Northern Virginia

>I'm thinking that the gap between the insert and the toe would only be problematic when you open the throat. Any debris would possibly interfere with this action. Clearing it out with a toothpick would be a solution in this case. A gap in this area would not affect the planing action in use.JR

Simple suggestion

Bob Hackett

>Take a look at the thoat plates that Steve Knight uses on his planes.Much easier,replaceable and far,far less work and trouble.No gap involved.

Mainely,Bob

Re: UPdate of infill plane making

Clay Home

>I wouldn't worry about the gap, nor how wide that insert needs to be in front of the mouth. Look below at how close the corrugations on the toe-sole of a Stanley 'C' plane come to the mouth, and you'll see it doesn't take much. The trick might be keeping that insert perfectly coplanar with the rest of the sole throughout its range of adjustment.

I would relieve the 'front' edge of the insert slightly, so that it doesn't present a sharp leading edge in use.

Clay

Re: UPdate of infill plane making

Lyn J. Mangiameli

>I may have missed it, but you didn't say how much oversize your throat is. If is isn't a huge amount, you could make up the difference with an "over thick" blade if you are thinking of making your own blade. I don't know what thickness blade you were initially considering, and I think that something around 3/16 is ideal, but you could likely go to 5/16 or even a little more with success (the reason not to go with extremely thick blades being the longer and thus less buttressing bevel angle).

Also consider whether a small change (lowering) in bedding angle may allow you to "close" the mouth.

Adjustable mouths are absolutely great to have on an infill, based on my experience with the SMT loopy, but they are not easy to accomplish. You might want to come by the SMT articles available from St James Bay Tool Co (you have to look in the video section) that he did for Home Shop Machinist magazine on how he modified the SJBT casting for an adjustable mouth. SMT, BTW, is almost done with a screw adjustable mouth "loopy" for me, but it has been a gargantuan effort to meet his usual perfectionist standards.

Re: we're going to need

Moses Yoder in White Pigeon, MI

>pic's of that plane when it is done ;) I've often wondered why people wouldn't put an adjustable mouth on an infill, but it must simply be because of the extra cost.

Re: UPdate of infill plane making *PICS*

William Duffield, on the Cohansey

>As I see it, the two critical issues in machining an adjustable mouth plane are: The bedding surface in the body of the plane must be coplanar with the sole, and the moveable plate must not be allowed to rotate. Sloppiness in either of these parameters will not allow the precision adjustments that are necessary to make the adjustable mouth worthwhile. Any other carelessness or imprecision can be fixed when you are tuning the plane.

For reference, here are a couple of exclusive Loxahatchee Toolworks photos of the machining of the first SMT Loopy.

Re: we're going to need *LINK*

ray k

>I'm definitely going to be posting pics and keeping some notes on this process. There just isn't that much info on the web on infill making. So I'll try to provide info geared towards first time makers like myself! In a way, I feel like I'm stumbling around in the dark. This discussion has really helped me out and I hope it'll help others out as well.

I put up some pics of my progress so far on my personal website. Just scroll down until you hit the plane stuff.


http://www.thenewchinkyworkshop.com/techniquescraf

Re: Simple suggestion

ray k

>Do you know where I can find pix of steve knight's inserts? I can't seem to find any on his company's website. I really hope this plane works well. I already shelled out the bucks for the casting.

Thanks again everyone for the advice. I found the home shop machinist's article really helpful as well. Ideally, I'd like to make my throat insert like the one in William's photo (I think that's the same style found in the home shop machinist article). But since I don't want to solder more brass onto the front knob, I've got to figure out a solution that doesn't require me to make such a large recess. My shop teacher's suggestion seems like it'll work. I just need to find a machine screw/bolt that will be able to be countersunk just below the sole. We'll see how this works out.

Re: Simple suggestion

Lyn J. Mangiameli

>They are the same general style because they were made by the same person: Stephen M Thomas. Stephen is one of the best plane designers ever.

Re: UPdate of infill plane making

Joel

>Why don't you just silver solder a bit of bronze on the leading edge of the throat, then file it flush to the sole and when you fit the blade open the throat approprotely. tHe casting is bronze so it should be pretty easy to do, especially with a low temperture silver solder.

Re: UPdate of infill plane making

Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)

>Ray

If you are adding an adjustable mouth to correct for a wide throat, then consider the following:

1. A thicker blade will address the original whoopsie.

2. At what cutting angle are you setting the frog? I recall Steve Knight once saying that the mouth size is no longer a factor when the blade cutting angle is 60 degrees.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Re: The Gap

Doug Evans

>IMHO the gap is a problem.

You will be trying to achieve a sole flatness within about 0.0005". The iron is not going to project much more than 0.001". Right in front of the throat, you will have an area to build up material. Eventually it is going to be a problem.

D