>Last night was the second Spokeshave-making class at the Halton Furniture Makers Society. We're building the LV low-angle wooden shaves as a group. There's 5 of us, and we're taking our time so most of us aren't near finished yet, even after two sessions. I guess we spend too much of our evenings talking about tools instead of wielding them, eh?
Here's a shot of our output so far. Next week they'll all be finished off, if everyone does their homework ;^)
Darrell
Wood Hoarder, Blade Sharpener, and Occasional Tool User
Great looking shot of the class of shaves. Darrell's is the one on the far right, made of cocobolo. We all are following Darrell's lead on this and he's an excellent teacher.
A big thanks to Fred Spencer for allowing us to use his shop-tools and consume his coffee and cookies too!!
I am really enjoying our Tuesday Night Hands on class!
This LV kit is really well done, I can see my self making another one after this one.
>Probably a good idea. Of course, I should do that with EVERYTHING I build! I've seen a few in quilted maple that were gorgeous. I'm hunting Ebay for an affordable piece. Can't wait to use it when its finished. Glad you guys came up with it.
>Rob has a point about working in cheaper wood to start, but I wouldn't use something like pine. Try maple, birch, or beech, something not too hard (that cocobolo is awful stuff) but good enough that it will actually make a functional tool. Why? Well, because if you use pine, cedar, or basswood your shave will come out *perfect* and you'll be rather put out that it isn't really rugged enough to be useable. DAMHIKT. And then your second effort in a better wood will be *ahem* not good. DAMHIKT as well.
As far as 'tips' I can't give you a better one than to read the instructions, which are available online if you want to read about it and think and research before you buy. Follow the link, click "INSTR" down at the bottom of the page. It's all there. Who else would give you this much info up front, eh?
OK, I've done my LV shill, now it's time for some serious stuff... How often do I adjust the depth of cut on a spokeshave? Once after each sharpening. And it stays that way until I have to pull the blade and hone it. So I don't think the depth adjuster is a really big deal. If you have some basic heat treating capability, hacksaw, file, drill, tap, and some steel and a couple of screws & nuts you can build a shave from scratch. Google teachshave and you're on yer way.
Darrell
Wood Hoarder, Blade Sharpener, and Occasional Tool User
>Well, because if you use pine, cedar, or basswood your shave will come out *perfect* and you'll be rather put out that it isn't really rugged enough to be useable.
The shave I made was using basswood, and I've never regretted it. Making a shave involves carving and shaping the handles, and there's no better wood that basswood for carving. The body has received only an oil finish, and the super smooth feel of basswood is quite pleasing. I just added a small Lignum Vitae sole plate that is morticed into the mouth of the shave for wear enhancement.
