Stanley 750 chisels

Friction

Bryan in Broad Ripple, IN

>They used good old fashioned friction to hold the handles on.

-Bryan

Re: Stanley 750 chisels

Moses Yoder in White Pigeon, MI

>I don't believe they used an adhesive; it is a press fit, and if the tenon is turned right it will tighten as you use it and stay pretty tight. I have a set with the labels still on the handles and some of the handles are loose in the socket, with no evidence of any adhesive. A good way to fit the tenon on the handle is to use a dowel, say 1/4" diameter, stick it into the socket and mark how far it goes in. You can then measure the diameter at the top of the socket and you will have a length of the tenon (marked on the dowel) the diameter at the narrow end would be 1/4" (1/4" dowel), and the top of the tenon would match the inside of the top of the socket, so you could lay out the taper. Turn the shoulder so it is about 1/8" or a little more above the top of the socket, so if the wood shrinks or your fit is a little loose you can tap the handle in further and tighten the joint without having to mess around with the shoulder.

Re: Stanley 750 chisels

Todd Hughes

>As others have said there was no adhesive used.I don't know of any older socket chisel that had factory glued in handles.If the handle is fitted right it isn't needed.As the wood shrinks the handle pushes further up into the socket and stays tight.Most chisels i think had about a 1/4 in. gap between the end of the socket and the shoulder on the handle which is important because of this.Lots of people don't realise this and when fitting the handle fit the handle shoulder right up to the socket. Wrong....I have found the best way to remove a handle is to simply tap it's side on somthing solid as you turn it around. Most times this works, if not try taping the side of the socket. Still stuck you have to put the handle in a vice and using a brass rod drive the socket off with hammer taps.Not many chisels are this stubbon though.....Todd

What Todd said.

Bob Hackett

>The only thing I do different to remove a handle is to grab the chisel by the handle and then strike the side of the blade on a wood block,turn the blade 180 and then strike again.Half dozen hits usually does it even for a stubborn old framing chisel.

I turn my replacement handles and the instructions you`ve got so far are pretty much in line with what I do to size the matching taper on the handle.Once you get close just put the handle into the socket and turn it then remove it.The socket will either burnish the high spots or leave rust on them.Keep scraping away the high spots till you get a good even fit and then use a parting tool to cut that 1/4" gap that Todd told you about.Sand to taste,cut the taper 1/4" shorter than the socket`s inside length(pencil and thumbnail get you close enough),finish and you`re done.

I hang my chisels so I they`re held by the steel and I can pick them up by the sockets.The first thing I do is to point the edge skyward while hold everything together(only takes 3 fingers at most) and tap the handle on the closest piece of wood(usually the bench)to be sure the handle is seated and the blade won`t fall off and dive to the floor.

If you hang them by the handles sooner or later you`ll be picking at least one blade up off the floor and sharpening away the chip,either that or repairing the linoleum in the kitchen,DAMHIKT.

Mainely,Bob

Re: Stanley 750 chisels

Glenn Madsen

>It's true today with the LN 'inspired by' versions. Those handles are friction fit as well.

My set had one which came loose, after moving from Maine to California. A few judicious whacks with the mallet, and I can't tell which one it was any longer.

Re: Stanley 750 chisels - LN versions

chad pearson

>I have a set of the LN chisels that have yet to be used...they have been sitting in the toolbox since I purchased them. I took them out the other day and all five handles were loose (nice and dry 27% humidity in my house). A gentle rap on the end fixed them back in.

Chad

Re: Stanley 750 chisels - LN versions

Glenn Madsen

>Now figure out a project, and put them to good use. That's the best return on your investment!

Friction???

Alan Garner

>Thanks everyone who has replied. My very limited experience with Stanley handles coming out of the 750 socket chisel seems to strongly indicate there was some sort of adhesive.

The handle was loose. In hindsight, probably a mistake, but I noticed there was something inside the socket of the chisel itself. With some lacquer thinner it came out. There was clearly something (my guess has been some sort of adhesive) in there which was either for filler or held the handle in. Whatever it was appeared to be original. When I look at other 750s I believe I am seeing something around the rim like adhesive or filler that oozed out.

When you guys say friction held them in, what are you basing that on? I fully believe you all when you say you can whack the handle one or more times and get the handle out and that it will go back in and friction fit, but that does not mean there is/was not some sort of adhesive there when the chisel was "assembled."

No offense, but my experience makes it a bit hard for me to conclude friction only.

Am I crazy?

Re: Friction???

Bob Hackett

>I take it these are bone stock Stanley chisels.As such they would have those funky red wooden handles.It may be that what you think is an adhesive is actually whatever that red finish is.The handles are dipped and then when they assemble,the finish that`s on the taper migrates to the socket.

Did you notice any red color when you cleaned the "adhesive" from the socket?

Mainely,Bob

Strictly speaking, probably not just friction

Bill Houghton, Sebastopol, CA, the rain's here

>I'm not sure how one would test this, but, while friction is a major component, the compressibility of the wood fibers in the handle likely contribute - it would be an interesting experiment to turn a handle from one of the less compressible plastics and test its ability to stay in place against a wood handle.

Friction ("The rubbing of one object or surface against another") is probably the major component, though, and is actually quite powerful properly applied - after all, consider how powerfully the various machine tapers (Morse and others) work. A driving center in a wood lathe can turn a 6" spindle against the pressure of a roughing gouge using nothing but the friction of the driving center's Morse taper in the lathe's Morse taper headstock spindle - and, most often in my experience, the driving center's spurs tear out of the wood before the tapers spin.