Miter box saw question

Re: Miter box saw question

Jack Guzman from Maine

>I'm not familiar with the 460 miter box but I have a 360A.Mine won't take a saw with a depth of less than 5 1/4" below the back.The teeth of a shallower saw cut into the sides of the guide.Saw box combos are plentiful and cheap on ebay.Get a smaller set for smaller work.I have several.A small one does most work. However I'm setting up the big one because the small one is just too light for some cutting.---Jack--still searching for the perfect miter saw

Re: Miter box saw question

Mike G.

>I used to have a Langdon that had two saws and two sets of guides. It was a little smaller than a 360A, but cut anything I put on it. I think I've still got the base but the guides are long gone as are the saws.

Mike G.

Re: Miter box saw question

Ernie Miller *Topeka

>I would consider getting a smaller box. it is just easier over all when doing small work to haave somthing smaller lighter and easier.

Depends some on what you mean by small *LINK*

Bill Houghton, Sebastopol, CA, the rain's here

>Ryan,

If by "small," you mean 1x1 molding or such sizes, then a smaller miter box will likely serve you - this was all I had for years, and I have yet to get to the restoration of the large ones I've picked up (too many projects, too few round tuits).

I once made a miter block for cutting stock 1/4" by 1/4" (6x6 mm for metric folk) with a hacksaw, and it answered quite nicely - the resulting picture-frame-around-a-small-picture fridge magnet is still going strong. I happened to have a piece of door-jamb stock to use, but would have gotten there with two pieces of wood glued together too. They work quite well. Alf's quite a slightly fancier one on her website, see link below, to give you an idea of what they look like.

Bill, reading too many British procedurals lately - "answered quite nicely??"


Thanks for the link, Alf

Re: Depends some on what you mean by small

Ryan Selberg in Salt Lake City

>Hi, Bill,

That is an interesting idea. I also realized I can use the 460 to help construct a smaller miter box, a "trough" style. Once the sides are attached to the base, I can use the larger saw to make accurate 90 and 45 degree cuts, which will be the most used cuts, then use a 12" or 14" backsaw for the actual cuts. Height of the sides can be matched to the smaller backsaws.

I appreciate the comments from everyone. Now off to the workshop to saw some wood!

Ryan

Kerf width

Bill Houghton, Sebastopol, CA

>It is important, I learned in making my miter block, to have a kerf width for a wooden box that's consistent with the kerf of the saw you'll use. This may be the biggest reason that home center wooden (or plastic these days, I guess) trough-type miter boxes don't work well: the pre-cut kerf is suitable for cutting the stock with a cat (I leave it to you whether I mean puddy-tat or Caterpillar D-9 - works either way).