Molding PLane Usage?

It's not too big a deal if you

Ed DeLauter

>take your time. I haven't modified the particular type moulder your involved with BUT I have made my own.

My understanding is you always modify the blade NOT the sole. You might try a little machinist dye or black majic marker on the blade face at the edge. Position the blade in the mouth for a clear projection and using a scribe follow the sole contour.

Then it's just a matter of bringing everything to the line. Using small round files (chainsaw etc.)

and other appropriate shapes. Keep in mind the bevel angle as you make your way to the line.

File a little/ recheck. File a little/ recheck.

You creep up on the final mark.

If the blade is unresponsive to filing it made need annealing first.

Have Fun,

Ed

Re: Molding PLane Usage?

Wiley Horne--Glendora CA

>Hi Tony,

Been there, done that, no t-shirt. Most recently on a good-sized cove/astragal. Ed gave perfect directions, especially the part about sneaking up on the fit, because if you overdo it, you get to rescribe and start lowering the good part of the profile to try to match what you just overcut. DAMHIKT.

Ed's also right when he says 'no big deal if you take your time'. But it kinda depends on how far out of whack the profile is. Sometimes it's pretty close: If you can see yourself wrapping abrasive paper around drill bits and dowels, and adjusting the profile a 64th" here and there, then this isn't going to be too tough. But if you're basically gonna have to reprofile the blade, I consider that a pretty big deal. For example, on that cove/astragal I mentioned, I had to take a fat and varying amount of metal off of most of that big cove section. I did part with a grinder, and then switched to 220g on a stick. It was, to me, painstaking, tedious work. I worked on it for an hour, seemed like two, and still didn't have it right on. I figure I'll be detailing for another hour or so. If you're clocking elapsed time, it's not a big deal, but I don't like that kind of time.

If you don't want to make a project out of that plane, but are also reluctant to send it back, you might get back to Mr. Leach, explain the situation, and ask does he have a ready-to-go molder he could swap you into that would be suitable for your purpose. I think he would help you.

Wiley

Files?

Mark Harrison -- in Sydney, Australia

>I haven't tried using a file on moulding plane irons. I would have thought that they would have been hardened and tempered therefore making a file useless. Am I wrong?

Re: Molding PLane Usage?

Chad Boehlke

>These moulders were not made like tools are today. old hand tools of that time was made "close enough for me" work. Now a days woodworkers want that 1/64" work and those tools did not have that. You can try two things, first work the back of the blade. This is a single surface and you don't have to work each shape, each shape has a seperate cuting edge to it. The second is to make a scraper to fit the mold.

Re: Molding PLane Usage?

Bill Sams

>I don't have alot of experience, but I have slightly reprofiled hollows and rounds. As others have said, flatten the back first, that in itself changes the profile just slightly and sometimes just enough.

I have just ordered a set of ceramic slip stones from Highland Hardware thinking this will help in reprofiling with the iron inserted in the body. I recently purchased a set of 7 wooden moulding planes which need some work, so time will tell.

Give yourself some more time before sending it back, IMHO

Good luck,

Bill

It depends...if the file skates

Ed DeLauter

>across the surface then annealing is in order first. Grinding is always an option but it has inherent dangers.

Ed

Files for moulding irons *LINK*

David Barnett

>I've done a fair amount of this, and Ed's right; sneak up on it.

Most of the moulding plane irons I've refitted or retouched yield easily to the usual sort of file, which is how they were generally intended to be sharpened. I've found the "Habilis" files from Grobet to be very useful, as they're between the larger American pattern files yet much beefier than needle files.

For harder irons I've used the Swiss-made "Valtitan" files without having to anneal, reharden and temper. These are an amazing RC-72 and I've yet to have one skate. Yes, they're more expensive than regular files, but if you plan to do much reprofiling, they're worth it*. The most useful profiles are the half-round slim or "ring" file, the three-square, and the round. Valtitans come in 6" or 7" lengths so are best for smaller cabinet moulding profiles. For really wide architectural moulders, I'd stick with larger American pattern files. Also, you can get by with "0" cut. Just wrap silicon-carbide paper around the files for honing.

You can find Habilis (including the new pricey diamond ones) and Valtitans (good prices) at Otto Frei. Select "Tools", then type "Valtitan" in the search box.

*It's nice to have a Panavise and an Optivisor, too.


Otto Frei

Whoa!!!!

Mark Harrison -- in Sydney, Australia

>You are not kidding about the price of these files!!! I could not possibly justify buying them myself. It would be cheaper to buy router bits for the tailed apprentice...

They're not THAT expensive

David Barnett

>Actually, at 12.70 USD for a coarse round Valtitan, it's hardly any higher than most other Swiss pattern files, cuts really well and can easily last three times as long as my other Grobet and F. Dick files. Way longer than Nicholson. One thing, don't send these to Boggs for sharpening before using them as you might American pattern files. I've got files I've used on annealed steel and non-ferrous metals that are still cutting after six to eight years. Like other handtools, buying the best you can afford usually pays in the long run. Of course, for most rough work, especially on tool steel, I use whatever's cheap and appropriate, although I pretty much stay away from Chinese files. You can find the Habilis set of five files for under forty dollars if you shop around.

Re: Molding PLane Usage?

Tony - Memphis

>Thanks for mentioning the slip stones. I'll be at Highland soon, so I'll grab a set.

Tony