Shoulder plane selection

Re: Shoulder plane selection

Dean J in MN

>Welcome to the hand tool side!

If you want to clean up the tenon cheek, there are better choices than a shoulder plane. A wide chisel, rabbet block plane, or a skew block plane. For cleaning up tenon shoulders, you'll want a shoulder plane (But a chisel works fine as well).

If you are looking to kill two birds with a single plane then the wider LV plane will be a good choice. But keep in mind a shoulder plane isn't going to cut as nice as a skewed chisel or a skew block. Shoulder planes are set up to cut endgrain not cross grain. I don't have the large shoulder plane, I use a chisel or the LV 3/4" for tenon shoulders and either a large chisel or my rabbet block to clean up tenons cheeks.

I'd skip the bullnose for tenon/shoulder trimming.

Good Luck!

Dean

Re: Shoulder plane selection

Tony - Memphis

>Hi Bill. I'm in a similar state of mind. If you are talking about cleaning up the cheeks, I go the LN rabbet block plane and it works great. I bought a shoulder plane as well, but I don't use it as much. I machine my tenons just a hair over, then tweak them with the LN. So all my shoulder cuts are machine made. I did do a few by hand in a class and appreciated having the shoulder plane then.

Tony

Terminology correction

Bill H - Austin, TX

>I guess what I'm looking to do is clean up the cheek, i.e. make it fit real well. So I'm not that concerned with the shoulder, I'm able to get that pretty well on the table saw.

Bill

Handedness *LINK*

Ted Owen, Pittsburgh

>If you end up getting a LN skew block plane for tenon cheeks, as I use, you might wish to consider whether the right-handed or left-handed version better suits your style.

If you are right-handed and hold the plane in your right hand, you may find the left-handed plane a little better.

Of course, after just a couple weeks around here on Hand Tools, you'll find yourself lusting to buy both the left-handed and right-handed versions. We seem to have that effect on people.

Best, Ted


LN Skew Block Plane

Re: Shoulder plane selection

Dan Clermont in Burnaby

>I use the LN 60 1/2R Rabbetting Block plane as well.

I can't seem to find a reason to buy a dedicated shoulder plane with this plane in my tool cabinet.

Dan Clermont in Burnaby

Re: Shoulder plane selection

HC Sakman

>LV 0.7" (medium) shoulder plane (unless your tenons are usually on the larger sizes then the larger (1-1/4") shoulder or LN 60-1/2R block plane should do it for you.

As far as "shoulder" planes are considered, LV version has no rival at this point.

Chico...

Re: Terminology correction

Adam Cherubini, NJ

>Hi Bill,

I concur with the good advise from Dean and Tony. Shoulder plane is the wrong tool for the job. Truth be told, I think its the wrong tool for every job.

I wish LV had (will) put their considerable ingenuity into making planes we desperately need like dadoes or T&G or some sweet little plows. So how about it Rob? I say a plastic bodied (PAI, PEEK) dado. You could make it like an old woodie, but injection molded then dressed up on CNC. I'll write the ad copy for free.

Adam

Re: Terminology correction

Dean J in MN

>

So how about it Rob? I say a plastic bodied (PAI, PEEK) dado. You could make it like an old woodie, but injection molded then dressed up on CNC. I'll write the ad copy for free.

...and I'll buy it! :)

-Dean

Re: Terminology correction *LINK*

Pam Niedermayer - Austin, TX

>Well, there's the LN small shoulder that could be used as a 1/2+" dado plane, the medium LV shoulder as a 3/4+" dado, and the big LN/LV as 1-1/4", which you wouldn't need all that often if ever. Also, HNT Gordon offers 1/2", 3/4", 1", and 1-1/4" shoulder planes. Or you could go whole hog and get some Japanese grooving planes (don't be put off by the description, they're skewed for cross grain cutting).

Pam


Skewed grooving plane

Re: Terminology correction

Rob Lee

>Hi -

No way. No chance. Never.

Making a plane out of plastic....you have to be kidding...

Running away as fast as I can....

Rob

Re: Terminology correction

Dean J in MN

>OK, so perhaps not plastic... :) But being without any reliable outlet for dado/plough/etc planes I'd be first in line to snap up a LV offering. Are there even thoughts aside from the plough I keep asking you for Rob? Dados? H&R's? A few complex moulding planes? Please? Pretty please?

-Dean

Not to forget...

HC Sakman

>LN #140! It's a very nice plane for cleaning tenon cheeks.

Chico...

Re: Terminology correction

Bill Houghton, Sebastopol, CA

>And will the helpful little knobs for this new line of planes be made of brass? wood? spun glass?

Come on, Rob, we're just trying to help you keep breaking new ground.

Bill, who wants to start a rumor that Rob's going to offer alternate knobs for the shoulder planes made of mother of pearl (what ever happened to pearl's dad, anyhow?), except he thinks he might never be able to order anything from LV if he does that, so he won't

Re: Terminology correction

Rob Lee

>The PC material would have to be Tagua...

Cheers -

Rob

(still can't get far enough away....)

Ok Santa.... Err... Rob. What I wish for....

HC Sakman

>..is a well made COMPASS PLANE!!!!!

Thanks in advance.

Chico...

Re: What about the knicker?

Mike Rubes, Apex, NC

>Hi Chico and all,

January is my birthday month and I am going to get either the LN Rabbet block or the 140 Skew. However, I am not sure about the knicker option if I go with the skew.

Just curious, do you have the 140 and/or the rabbet and do you like one or the other better? I have a shoulder plane and am looking at something to trim the cheeks. Also, if you have the skew, do you have the knicker option and do you feel that it helps to score the cut?

Thanks for any information,

Mike

Paging through the LN catalog while waiting for my birthday to arrive in Apex, NC!!!

An offer you can`t refuse

Bob Hackett

>If you will send the wood knobs you want sacrificed along with the "mother of pearl"acrylic stock in the color of choice which you can get from just about any turning catalog accompanied by a simple sketch to size of the knobs you want turned I`ll see that it`s done.

I`ll even pay the return postage on the provision that you post a pic of the plane with the new knobs installed.

How`s that for a deal?

Mainely,Bob

Re: An offer you can`t refuse

Ernie Miller *Topeka

>how's that arm of yours? looks like you are ready for some small chores.

Re: Terminology correction

paul womack

>Are there even thoughts aside from the plough I keep asking you for Rob? Dados? H&R's? A few complex moulding planes?

At the risk of second guessing LV's (and/or LN's) marketing strategy, I'd say a "light combination plane" along the lines of the #50 is their best bet for a plane of wide utility against production complexity. The market for H&R sets is small, and even a half set would inevitably be expensive.

Complex moulders? I don't even want to think about choosing which shapes and sizes.

I am reminded of the initial flood of requests to LN in the early days insisting that LN's 6th (or thereabouts) product simply had to be a #51/52 shooting plane and board.

A request wisely (IMHO) ignored.

BugBear

Re: An offer you can`t refuse

Bob Hackett

>You`ll notice I didn`t say I`d turn it,I said I`d see that it gets done.

I have alot of favors I`ve been calling in.This one won`t even dent the list of what my sons owe me.:^)

Mainely,Bob

Re: Terminology correction

Adam Cherubini, NJ

>Rob,

Your response makes me chuckle. Realize I design things for a living (hard to believe) and this isn't the first time someone has laughed at my ideas.

But I'm definitely not kidding. A plastic bodied plane is filled with advantages both for you and your customer. Using a few simple injection molds, generic body shapes could be produced very inexpensively. These shapes could then be CNC machined into virtually any plane a customer could want. Complex molders would be very simple to make. Contrary to what has been said here, there are basic molding shapes and sizes that would find favor in shops across the continent. You needn't make a white elephant H&R set.

Let's just look at dado planes for a moment: I don't know how dadoes are created in electrified shops. In my shop I layout where the drawers will go, then nail a batten (which you could sell with some special clamps at either end) directly onto the carcass side exactly where I want the dado to go. No fussing about with router setups and test cuts. I fence the plane against the batten and in a minute or two the dado is created.

The problem with dado planes is that the size we want is rare (3/4"). You could make 3/4" for 4/4s and 13/16 for guys that use plywood shelves or runners. That would be a huge advantage. Knicker irons, depth stops and skewed blades are necessity. Nothing presently on the market will suffice.

The materials I suggested are both relatively expensive. But PAI would feel marvelous against wood. Its used as a bearing material in some applications- its harder and more wear resistant than UHMW, but it would have a similarly waxy feel. You could try UHMW which is cheaper.

But if you're still not convinced, just imagine the colors you could make them. I know you've been courting female woodworkers. Imagine a set of pink planes! For the manly man they could be stealth flat black, or hunter green for our friends in New England.

Wait! Rob! Come back! I'm not done yet.....they could be maple leaf red...or striped! How about a plaid plane! Houndstooth?

Adam

We'll talk...

Rob Lee

>... when you switch to MDF as the primary material for your work... :)

Rob

Ahem... Sir....Mr. Lee...

HC Sakman

>..how about a compass plane, oce again?

Chico...

LOL

Adam Cherubini, NJ

>