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Est. 1998 — 27 years of woodworking knowledge

Good Hope Hardwoods - Walnut Slabs & Specialty Hardwood Lumber

Danish Modern Table *Pics

Posts

Danish Modern Table *Pics

#1

Danish Modern Table *Pics

Gil

>Well it's done. After a few weeks of deliberation cutting mortises with a chisel and guide block, gluing, clamping, scraping and sanding it's together and finished. Here are some photos of the table I made for my girlfriend's xmas gift. It's a little late, but I'm sure she'll like it. This is my first flat work besides cutting boards, so I'm quite happy with it LOL.




Some personal issues... I got sloppy with prep work. After 6 coats of varnish I had some bubbles which I went after way too agressively with 150 grit on a random orbit sander. I should have sanded the sanding marks out and I take it home and do that. The only problem is that will require sanding away multiple layers of varnish. So I may just leave them until I get bored and decide to refinish.

How many Figure 8's are you supposed to use to attach a table top? Do you put them on both the long and short ends of the apron??

Time to pack the car and head off to New Jersey in the blizzard.

-Gil

Re: Danish Modern Table *Pics

#2

Re: Danish Modern Table *Pics

Bill Houghton, Sebastopol, CA, the rain's here

>I like the apron design. Adds a lot of personality to what could be a plain design.

I tend to over-do the top-to-apron attachment, so I'll let others weigh in on the number - but you are supposed to attach the figure 8 fasteners (or any fastener) with an eye to how the wood will move - laid out slightly sideways on the long grain and at right angles to the apron on the short-grain side, in both cases so they can move with the grain. If this is not clear, ping me off-line and I'll try to do a drawing tomorrow night (too late tonight).

Re: Danish Modern Table *Pics

#3

Re: Danish Modern Table *Pics

Greg Sloop, Portland Oregon

>Very nice! Simple and elegant.

The figure eights go on the short side where the end grain is.

The boards will get "wider" as they gain water, and smaller as they lose it. Thus, the width of the table needs to be floating.

I use the "Z" style attachments, which are similar, but probably have a different strength. I'd probably use four total. Two each side, one at each corner. That keeps it simple.

As for finish touch-up - consider a card scraper. It makes removing finish and esp. runs and such much more a charm. Small or no burr will do fine unless you really want to rip it off...

Again, looks very nice. Thanks for sharing.

Cheers,

Greg

Re: Danish Modern Table *Pics

#4

Re: Danish Modern Table *Pics

Don Thompson - Cutler Ridge, Florida

>Great work. You did real nice work joining the aprons to the legs.

As per the top fasteners - keep in mind that people are going to lift the table by the top, and perhaps not too gently, so add enough of them to make it secure.

Re: Danish Modern Table *Pics

#5

Re: Danish Modern Table *Pics

Brion - C -OR

>Especially as a fan of DM.., SWEET !!

👍 This page answered my questions

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