After years of pointless gloating...........

Re: After years of pointless gloating...........

Bob Hackett

>This is exactly the type of fix turners have been doing for years.I`d suggest maybe using those ultra thin spout extentions that Starbond sends with thier product as they allow you to precisely place the glue.Ask a local turner for help in locating these.

After hitting it with water thin if there are any gaps just follow up with thicker stuff and the thin will help pull it deep.I wouldn`t use accelerator as it sometimes causes white spots to form at the glueline.

Scrape with a piece of appropriate shaped broken glass or a very small cabinet scraper,knock back the plastic look with steel wool or scotchbrite and wax and the repair should just about disappear.

Good luck Coop,both with the repair and the sale.

Mainely,Bob

Re: After years of pointless gloating...........

Don Thompson - Cutler Ridge, Florida

>A clean break - not a split, or a joint needing reassembly, would seem to be a perfect candidate for CA glue.

Re: After years of pointless gloating...........

Michael Stadulis, in Gloucester County, NJ

>Hi Cooper,

Some food for thought. Why not use hide glue and kill a few birds? Here are my thoughts:

1. I'd be concerned that w/ mahogany, the super glue may be absorbed into the open grain and not give you a decent bond;

2. Hide glue has almost the same instant tack as what you proposed;

3. It has some gap filling abilities, and I'd bet that will be an issue, if only to a minor degree w/ the breakage;gaps can be stained w/ aniline dye;

4. squeeze out isn't a problem since it comes off easily;

5. I hate using those kinds of glue as they make me nervous about getting everything right.

-Mike

What I do

Jim Reed @Tallahassee

>After repairing enough antique furniture to be considered an antique myself... I use woodworking glue for repairs and always have. I have had to clean up way too much failed hide glue to even consider using it. Leave it to the museum guys. I fixed a 200 yr old stand last night with Tightbond and cardboard from a box. Tore off a small strip of paper, slathered it with glue, wrapped it around the loose dowel, and glued it back in place. Good now for another 200 years. I don't like to glue wood with superglue because I like tack time. When old wood breaks along the grain lines, the irregularities will hold everything together with very little glue. It is hard to get everything exactly aligned using super glue.

Re: After years of pointless gloating...........

William Duffield, on the Cohansey

>For repairs to old furniture that has any more than utilitarian value, we usually use Franklin's liquid hide glue. If we have problems with clamping the repair, especially in decorative, as opposed to functional, repairs, we use masking tape to hold it while the glue sets. I prefer the 3M blue tape, which is low tack and stretchable.

For construction and repair of new furniture, we use yellow carpenters glue. That might work well enough to put a carved piece back together, since no one will need to disassemble it again at the break at any time in the future. I would not use CA, because it gets brittle and will fail in a surprisingly short number of years.

Is this a great community or what?

Victor Parisian

>the cry goes out for help and half a dozen people from across the nation respond. I love it. A Happy New Year to all of you.

Regards,

Victor - still at work trying to wrap up another great year.

So...

Cooper Suter

>...do I need to be concerned w/oils in the wood if I were to use a hide or yellow type glue?

Is the basic wipe w/a solvent enough for a good bond?

I was really leaning towards the CA glue until embrittlement was mentioned, now I'll probably not.

I won't be owning it when it does turn brittle (if?), but I can see that happening, and I'd hate it if I were the buyer.

Thanks all, and I'll let you know how it turns out, Coop.

Coop? is that Old Widowed Lesbian(OWL)

Rocky

>

The problem with wiping

Jim Reed @Tallahassee

>If you look at the old wood after a clean break, you should see bundles of fibers and open pores along with little splinters. This is great glue territory as it is. If you wipe with a solvent, you will break pieces off, leave lint from the rag, and fill in some of the great little pores. Less is more in this case.

I got some well deserved flack and I apologise

Rocky

>to everyone out there that takes offence to what I just posted above. My best friend was over and we were reading the treads and she suggested that I should type that back at Coop for the OWL remark. Just looking back it was a bad call on my part but hey my gay girl-friend suggested it.

Regards,

Rocky

CA fail?

Bob Hackett

>I`ve heard that CA will fail but I have turnings that are 10+ years old and friends who still fly RC planes that are twice as old who think otherwise.

I wonder where all this info about failing CA is coming from.

MB

Re: CA fail?

William Duffield, on the Cohansey

>That's a good question. I don't know. More to the point, I don't know what CA's mean time to failure is, or what conditions might hasten it's failure. I do know that hide glue definitely will fail over time, but that time is usually on the order of several decades, a bit longer than aliphatic resins have been around, quite a bit longer than epoxy has been in use and way longer than CA has been used in woodworking applications.

Hide glue's advantage is that it is easily reconstituted, easily cleaned out of the joint, and easily repaired. Those characteristics are far from enough to make it the correct choice for all applications. Low humidity hastens its failure.

I have heard nothing of yellow glue failures, but I know that it can be very difficult to separate a joint using it in case a repair must be made. Also, the most commonly used formulations are succeptable to attack by moisture, but you wouldn't guess that based on the glue spots on my work denims.

Epoxy is strong and stable and waterproof, but fails quite quickly if attacked by UV or if heated to lower temperatures than would cause yellow glue failure.

CA is inherently brittle, so shock stresses can cause failure. I do not know how much this property gets worse over time, or due to temperature or humidity extremes, or attacks by chemicals, and I don't know what chemicals might hasten its demise.

Anyone know any more?

Re: I got some well deserved flack and I apologise

Todd O. Cronkhite Maine Native in FL. Exile :~(

>Don't you just hate it when one of those "It-seemed-like-a-good-idea-at-the-time" ideas lands you into hotwater? Seems I've had a few of them grand ideas myself over the years. Ahhhhhhhhhhhh well, live and learn eh? ;~)

Still dunno what OWL means. Old widow lady perhaps?

Todd O.

Bird

Bill Houghton, Sebastopol, CA, the rain's here

>famous for silent flight and catching mice and (favorite word alert) voles. Comes in various sizes and species. Absolutely fascinating example of adaptation to a specific ecological niche, as the face of the skull is shaped to provide a parabolic focusing - and therefore amplification - of sounds coming from the front into the ears, which are located at the outside of the head.