Jointer plane questions-long

Question 2- the tote

Jack Guzman from Maine

>This plane is 33" long. I need to make a tote or rear handle for it.(I'm not sure if these are called totes on a woodie)The mortise is 10 3/4" long by 1 1/8" wide. Where exactly should the handle be located and why such a long mortise?

I have a few woodies I can use as a pattern for it but a picture of a similar long plane might help me shape my handle.

Re: Jointer plane questions-long

John K in Hastings, MN

>That kind of cap iron is used for metal, not wooden, planes. Take it off and see how it works bevel down with no chipbreaker.

John

final question--- the iron

Jack Guzman from Maine

>This is a nice clean iron.The only pitting is away from the edge.The back's flat and the bevel needs no shaping.I may even get by with a honing.

I don't know if the picture is good enough to make out the logo,but has anyone seen anything like it? The eye at top is clear and the writing appears to be some language other than english.

thanks---Jack

too loose

Jack Guzman from Maine

>Without the cap iron the opening is too large.---Jack

Re: Question 2- the tote

Ernie Miller *Topeka

>Cap iron goes on top. I don't think they are made out of hard steen so pound the bejesus out of in and make it straight. I looked in my junk box for a straight one and no luck. I don't know where the tote should go but several of my planes have a block of wood glued in front or back of the tote.

Re: Jointer plane questions-long

Jack Guzman from Maine

>I'm going to do a bit more digging before I give up on this a cap iron. Besides the bend,it mates well with the iron. The iron is tapered,I wasn't aware they used tapered irons in metal planes.That's a good idea about the handle.I think I'll make a prototype and try it in a few places.--thanks--Jack

Re: Jointer plane questions-long

Dale Stansbery

>If the plane originally had a cap iron, there ought to be a recess in the plane body for clearance of the screw head that fastens the cap iron to the blade, and I can't see one in the photo. In some cases there may be a recess in both the plane body and the wood wedge. I have a coffin smoother with a Butcher blade that has both since the blade has a thin square nut welded on that the cap screw goes in to. I have no idea if that was the original configuration, or an owner modification.

Ohio Tool did put tapered irons in steel planes as some one this board once informed me. I have an Ohio Tool made Keen Kutter KK5 with a tapered iron with cap iron.

You certainly have an unusual plane and iron, and none of this may apply to it.

Re: Jointer plane questions-long

"RJ" Whelan

>Jack �

As I understand your description you have to put either the wedge or breaker under the iron to close the throat up. Neither of these configurations is likely to be what the original builder intended.

Your options are:

1. Lay a patch onto the bedding surface.

2. Patch the leading edge of the throat.

3. Build, or have built, a thicker iron to close up the throat.

I would probably choose option #2 or #3. I would not suggest closing the throat up like a smoother; I�d probably want to be able to pass a shaving of at least .005-.007 in thickness.

You definitely want the bevel down and I�d probably get rid of the breaker unless the iron chatters without it � even then I�d probably get a beefier iron before adding a breaker.

I have seen planes with a separate opening for shavings; most have been German or Austrian in origin. This is not, IMHO, an optimum design: the throat clogs pretty easily and it is difficult to clear without pulling the wedge and iron out; and, if you pound the wedge in too hard or fail to loosen it after use the piece of material between the iron and the shaving port can split out. A better design is to cut gains into the cheeks of the throat � this would probably be pretty difficult to do without cutting the plane apart. If you stick with this design feature, as I probably would, just be careful about putting too much stress in this area and definitely loosen the wedge before putting the plane away.

I don�t have an opinion on a tote and handle. None of my wood planes have them and I am comfortable using the planes without them � I do, usually, cut a relief behind the iron into which my right hand rests, this provides enough purchase for me to be able to put sufficient force on the push stroke. My left hand usually moves all over the place when I�m using a wooden plane and the addition of a tote would be very limiting for me.

Good luck ... rj

Re: Jointer plane questions-long

Jack Guzman from Maine

>There are no grooves or recesses. The iron is tapered and has no holes grooves or recesses.The cap iron appears handmade.I think it may be just there as a shim. Maybe the original iron was thicker.---Jack

Re: Jointer plane questions-long

Jack Guzman from Maine

>I'm not trying to close up the throat.Just trying to put it back together as it was intended so it is functional. Without the cap iron the wedge isn't thick enough to hold the iron in place.---Jack

Re: Jointer plane questions-long

Jack Guzman from Maine

>Were these tapered irons threaded to hold a screw? If not how was the chip breaker held in place?

Re: Jointer plane questions-long

Jonathan Peck - N.Y.

>Hi jack,

I also have a craftsman made jointer plane with a tapered iron and chipbreaker that only wedges when bevel up. Try taking a thick non-tapered iron and chipbreaker and try them bevel down. If the angle is correct you got your answer.

Re: Jointer plane questions-long

Jack Guzman from Maine

>This is a solid iron,no holes or slots. Chipbreaker too.

Hi Jim, Happy Hollidays...OT

Scott Burr Ben Lomond,CA

>Hope your setteled in and had a great Christmas! Good to see you back!

Re: final question--- the iron

Jeff Schmidt (KY)

>Goldenberg was a French maker.

Re: final question--- the iron

Jim Brown

>With that apparent artistry, it might be "special shovel steel" from Maryland.