>I posted this on the power tool side to see what the most important planes to get for general purpose stuff. I've been in the house about a year and am still doing "honey do's" i.e. building decks and pergolas, remodel the kitchen, base boards etc. but I plan to be fixing my garage/shop up soon with cabinets and such. I don't really understand the term #98 or #5. I think I'll need a new block plane, probably a rabbit plane, ( I have a Jack). So what first "good" planes do I get? I was thinking of buying from Lee Valley and I've got $300.00 from the sale of my old tablesaw. Thanks for any input.
Welcome to the wonderful world of hand planes. I'm not an expert so take any recommendations I make with a grain of salt.
A #5 Stanley is about 14" long and is called a Jack Plane. You mentioned that you have a Jack. That size plane is probably the most versatile of the sizes. In comparison a #8 Jointer is 24" long and a #3 smoother is about 9" long. Another very handy one is the small block plane which is also available in a low angle configuration. I'd buy the regular one first and then get the low angle one.
I'm not affiliated in any way with Lee Valley but let me recommend their Low Angle Jack to you. Buy the high angle blade that goes with it. The plane, with the combination of both blades, is everything from a smoother, to a jointer, to a miter plane. I have that plane and have been very impressed with it since the day it arrived. The plane is a little pricey but well worth it IMHO.
However, with the money you mentioned, you could buy a number of fine old planes from say, E-bay, and restore them to working condition. That in itself is an education in the proper workings of a hand plane.
They say once you start buying and using hand tools it's a slippery slope. For me it's been a free fall.
If you are searching for Stanley descriptions you may wish to do yourself a favor and purchase the Stanley Tools book (Guide to Identity and Value) by John Walter. Close to 900 pages. It was $30 in paperback when I found my copy maybe four years ago. Prices may change but the details will serve you well for years to come.
>First, go to the library and check out every book you can find on hand tools. Read them. Notice the contradictions: everyone's writing from the perspective of how s/he learned to use tools, and everyone's got a different solution. The below are my thoughts:
1. Buy a block plane next. Standard angle or low angle, for what you're doing, is not very important, but the consensus here seems to be that low angle is more flexible, for this reason: since the standard block plane (other that ECE's wooden one) is a bevel-up plane, you can change the effective angle by changing the angle of the bevel. The all-time best Stanley low-angle block plane is the No. 65, but if you're looking to buy new, people seem to feel quite good about the Lee Valley (don't know; I own very few new tools).
2. I discovered rabbet planes late - they are sure helpful. I'd consider the Stanley no. 78 or Record No. 778, both mostly available used. These have two iron positions, so you get do bullnose (into corners) work when you need to. However, there are other ways to accomplish what a rabbet plane does, though not as handy, so don't feel you absolutely MUST do that.
Beyond that, I'd hold back from buying anything else until you start to get frustrated with what those tools can do, and let the combination of your reading and your frustration guide you.
3. Buy a really good set of chisels. If I were buying retail, I'd buy the Ashley Iles chisels, based on reviews. Get at least the four-chisel set (1/4, 1/2, 3/4, 1), and consider getting a 1-1/2 or 2 inch chisel, which can be quite handy for certain uses.
4. Buy, and learn to use well, whatever sharpening system attracts you: oilstones, waterstones, Scary Sharp (sandpaper on a flat surface), diamond, etc. A sharp edge tool is vital, and improves the quality of the tool and of your work by a quantum factor.
>Another really helpful resource is Pat Leach's Stanley Blood and Gore. This is a by the numbers explanation of all the Stanley plane numbers with some helpful info about each one.
>What kind of wood do you work with, what kind of woodworking do you do and want to do?
The plane numbers you see are based upon the numbering used by Stanley for up to 135 years or so. Other posts in this thread point to the Patrick Leach pages, which list all of the numbers.