Restoration 101 *LINK*
Jonathan Peck - N.Y.
>I saw this post last night, but I was too tired to post a response. After checking this morning, I'm not at all surprised that Todd H has posted exactly whatI wanted to say. So rather than a *me too* post, I'd like to add a few things that I do slightly differently than Todd.
After you've got the plane dissasembled and cleaned, you may have to deal with some rust. I only use sandpaper as a last resort and sparingly. For general rust removal I use fine steel wool, and for isolated spots either a razor blade or a dull chisel will also work. On japanned areas and the lever cap, a nylon brush and/or fine steel wool. I've read that scoth brite pads also work well, but I have not tried them yet.
There has been recent discussion here about getting started withhandplanes. I know this subject has been dealt with in the archives,galoot websites, books and videos, but I'd like to add my two cents. While I've improved my techniches, Istill have room for further improvement and welcome all to join in and
share on points where you have used other methods to good success.Corrections for bad technique are also welcomed.
Cleaning and fettling a plane can be very intimidating if you've never tried to do this before. Many prefer to stick to modern makers for this very reason, but they will never know the pleasre of using an old plane with it's aged rosewood tote and knob, patina and the feeling one gets when holding a piece of history. It inspires and brings thoughts of those who have held it before, but I digress.
Let's get right to the meat and potatoes. Patience is key here. If I knew then what I know now, I would have saved myself much time andmoney. There is an abundance of old tools out there, so wait for theright vintage, in good condition or better, for the right price. So what is the right vintage? Everyone has their own personal preference. Any Bailey from type 2 to type 17 or even to 19 (except for maybe types 3 and 5) should make a good user. What is good condition? Experience is key here, and I won't bog down on this point and only say - In time you will know
how to spot the planes that will clean up and work perfectly with little time and expense. This Stanley #4 type 11, was a
rusty/dirty/greasy/paint splatterd mess, with a broken tote. It took two hours to clean and fettle and cost me a total of $37. Almost gloatable, but then I am still learning (see link below)
My first Stanley bench plane, a #6 of sweetheart vintage, was in the same condition. It cost me $45, took me 20 hours to overclean and fettle, and it still wouldn't take a shaving. Discouraged, I put it on the shelf for a couple of months. After finding the porch, and some new courage, I gave it another crack, and it's now a favorite. So if you run into this problem, put it on the shelf and come back to it when you find yourself thinking....maybe it won't take a shaving because the...........
These are the steps I take in cleaning: I completely dissasemble theplane and let all the parts soak in mineral spirits (except for the tote and knob) while I clean the body. I use fine steel wool, a brass bristle brush for tight spots, and Q-tips for threaded holes. I don't go crazy on the sole, because I will lap it later. If there are any areas of heavy rust on the sole or sides, I scrape it (locally) with a razor blade, and LIGHTLY touch-up with 320 grit sandpaper lubricated with WD-40. I also use a razor blade to remove any paint splatters. I spray WD-40 in all the threaded holes, wipe down with a soft rag and move on to the screws. I clean all the threads with a wire brush,and if they are ragged at the head, I lightly sand off the ridges.
Next step is cleaning the frog. I use the steel wool, brass brush and Q-tips again, wipe down and install the depth adjustment knob, lever cap screw, and the throat adjustment screw and attach to the body. I repeat the same steps for the iron, cap iron, and lever cap, and then the knob and tote.
The main thing I'd like to stress is that I don't go crazy. I rub gently with steel wool. If I run into heavy rust or paint splatters, I scrapeit off with a razor blade or a dull chisel will also work. I go back to steel wool, and then 320 grit sandpaper in isolated spots. If you go lightly with the sandpaper, it wil still leave a nice patina. For the softer lever cap, iron, and cap iron, I'll go up to 600 grit so I don't leave scratches.
The next step would be fettling it you intend to put your old plane back to use. This I belive is like sharpening and takes time and practice so don't get discouraged if your plane does not take wispy shavings your first time. All I can say about this is that I've learned more about how planes work by putting an old plane bach to work than anywhere else. I now have no fear in taking a file to any *LN or *infill. I get much more pleasure from my old tools when I can take them off the shelf and use em' than if I were just looking at them and admire them.
* yes, even LN's can be improved with a little fettling. This mainly consists, for me anyway, of removing mill marks from the bed and the frog. I lap the frog on a lapping table and touch up with a file where I have to work around the lateral lever adjuster. Be forewarned that if you put a file to brass, it may not be good for anything else after that. To lap the bed I wrap sandpaper around a flat piece of metal. I like to use a Hock improved chipbreaker for this, put anything flat that won't deflect should work
** I like to touch up the mouth to remove chips and roundovers. Also, I think that the wood infill can shrink and cause the blade to bed badly.
Hope this helps
Regards
Jonathan
Restored Stanley #4
