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String inlay

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String inlay

#1

String inlay

Davy Barr

>I've been searching all overthe internet for information on doing string inlay. Haven't been too successful. Can anyone here point me in the direction of a simple tutorial? If it's all about how to do it with power tools, then it won't be of much help to me since I have almost all hand tools. What are some of the tools needed? I have a 71.5 Stanley router, a Stanley 66 bead plane, and other standard hand tools. Do I need anything else besides maybe a 271?

Re: String inlay

#2

Re: String inlay

Steve Wargo

>A router with an 1/8" straight bit and edge guide. I know it's not neander, but it is a simply way.

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#3

Re: String inlay

Tony Sade (Charleston, WV)

>I just watched an episode of the Woodwright's Shop with Roy whatshisname, and his guest was a guy whose name I can't remember who specializes in federal pieces that are extensively inlaid. I don't know how you'd get a copy of the show, but I can't imagine a better tutorial on the subject, including the making of inlay materials, banding and stringing; the making of tools to do the work (most of which are shop made); and the inlay process itself. I recorded it on a DVR so I have no way to send it to you-if it were VHS, I'd gladly send you a copy. Tony

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#4

Re: String inlay VHS *LINK*

William Duffield, on the Cohansey

>Here is where you can order the Woodwright's Shop episode, with Steve Latta, that Tony recommended.

Shop PBS

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#5

Re: String inlay

Jim Crammond in Monroe, Mi.

>Davy,

The gentleman on the Woodwright's Shop episode that Tony referred to was Steve Latta, I think. Tony was correct, this episode was a good tutorial for the type of work Mr. Latta does. He has also written an article that appeared in Fin Woodworking sometime ago about the subject.

I've seen Garrett Hack demonstrate the process he uses for string inlay and it is not that difficult. You could file a bit for your #66 Beader to make the groove that the string would fit in. The shape you want is tapered with the top being slightly wider than the bottom. Approximately 1'16" on top and 1/32" on the bottom and an 1/8" deep. Set the fence on the beader to the distance you desire from the edge and make the groove. The only hard part is turning corners.

Using fairly straight grained stock, rip about an 1/8" thick piece off one edge. You could do this with a rip saw, but I would normally do it on a band saw. Cut this piece into 3/16" wide strips using a slitting gage or utility knife and a straight edge. Clean up the saw marks by placing a plane upside down in a vise and pulling the strip over the plane. You do this by grabing one end with one hand and placing the thumb of your other hand just ahead of the iron. Pull the piece over the plane while pressing down with your thumb. Put more pressure on one edge of the piece to produce a taper. You should now have several this pieces of stringing 1/16" tapered to 1/32" by 3/16". Test to see if it fits into the groove, if not plane a little more off. If you are getting tearout in the planing process, just flip the piece over or turn end for end. The taper helps to insure there are no gaps between the string and the edge of the groove after you seat it in the groove.

Put glue in the groove using a toothpick or other small piece of wood and install the string. Tap it down as much as possible and let the glue dry. To finish, plane the string down with a finely set plane with a tight mouth.

It really is easier than it sounds, start out with some small scrap pieces to perfect the technique and you'll be surprised how well it goes.

Jim

Re: String inlay

#6

Re: String inlay

Davy Barr

>Thanks a bunch, Jim. That's just the information that I was looking for. I figured it was something like this process and could have figured it out by trial and error, but it sure is easier if someone lays out the process so I don't have to go through the errors.

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#7

Re: String inlay

Tony - Memphis

>Mr. Hack's article was very good. It was FWW #116 Feb. 96. I recall seeing Mr. Latta's article, but ti doesn't show up in my database. Probably sitting in a pile at home waiting to be entered.

Tony

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#8

Re: String inlay

Steve Wargo

>Garrett Hack also uses a scratch stock to create his grooves. It should also be noted that when he does this he uses an iron that has a slight taper to the sides creating a gentle vee shape. I stress the word gentle here, but I'm fairly certain that this is correct.

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#9

Re: String inlay

Steve Wargo

>Sorry, Forgot to mention that he also tapers the inlay to fit in the groove.

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#10

Re: String inlay

Jim Crammond in Monroe, Mi.

>Davy,

I just noticed that there is a discussion on the SAPFM forum about Steve Latta's tool to taper stringing. I didn't look at them, but I think there are some picturs of it.

Jim

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#11

Re: String inlay

Davy Barr

>Sorry, but you'll have to enlighten me as to what the initials stand for in regards to the "other" forum. Send it to my e-mail, if you don't mind.

Re: String inlay

#12

Jack Guzman from Maine

Thanks Jim

Jack Guzman from Maine

>That's a useful post. I just saved it for future reference.When I'm trying to do things like this(hand tool methods)I can't usually find help.I've spent too much time searching in old magazines and all I usually end up with is the popular router or table saw methods.

Thanks for posting.---Jack

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#13

Re: String inlay

William Duffield, on the Cohansey

>Society of American Period Furniture Makers

It is easy enough to ask Google. They'll provide a link to the the organization's website. Then you can click on Forum and search for Latta and Inlay.

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