Planes for shooting boards

Re: Planes for shooting boards

Skip in Falls Church

>That reminds me, I used my altered Record 05 (altered to a T5 configuration) the past week and it was great. I used it with the grip shown in Planecraft and a newly sharpened Sweetheart laminated blade. While I was working with very soft wood, that white mystery wood that is sold at the box - if I read the abbreviation correctly it's aspen, it left a glass smooth surface on the end grain.

Anyway, to answer the question, I use a Record 05 with the cheek tapped to take a verticle handle. (Al tleast it's verticle if you have the plane laying on the other cheek.) The blade is at the standard 45 degree bedding and the mouth is not terribly tight. The handle gives me great control and lets me get more power into the stroke. It's now my dedicated miter plane.

Skip

Re: Planes for shooting boards

Dean in Burlington

>I use a bedrock #8 with no problems.

Re: Planes for shooting boards

Ed Mulligan, Cape Cod

>Mitch -

A tight mouth isn't needed for end grain,IME. End grain can't tear out. For face grain, a tight mouth is very important.

I've successfully used a Stanley #2, LN #9, Stanley #7, Record T5, and LN 62. They all work fine. My favorite is the LN 62.

Ed

Re: Planes for shooting boards

Peter Berglund in Denver

>My shooting plane is a Sargent #5 equivalent with a Hock iron and the frog moved up as much as possible. Works great - thinking of installing a side handle as well.

Peter

Most of yours are correct, but...

Scott Burr in Ben Lomond CA

>The most important item on a miter plane or shooting plane is that the sides are square with the sole of the plane IMHO. I use a LN 9.

Re: Planes for shooting boards

paul womack

>LN #9 ... Record T5, and LN 62. They all work fine. My favorite is the LN 62.

Impressive list o' tools!

I'm intrigued that you prefer the "jack of all trades" #62 to the made-for-shooting #9.

Care to expand?

(the famous T5 is easy to use with its extra handle, but for cutting, it's only a Bailey at heart)

BugBear

Re: Planes for shooting boards

Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)

>For end grain, my two favourites are a Stanley #62 (with LN blade) and a LV LA Jack, both with LA blades. If I am squaring up long grain then I may use the above with a HA blade or a HNT Gordon Try Plane.

Point #1: the size of the mouth is unimportant when planing end grain. However, I am used to setting the mouth and blade together, so a small mouth and a thin shaving (necessary) go hand-in-hand.

Point #2: The short answer is yes. The longer answer is that you "run in" the shooting board by planing away the edge above the plane's sole once it has been constructed. The remaining edge forms the guide/fence for the plane.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Re: Most of yours are correct, but...

Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)

>Not necessarily (although I make every effort for this to be the case). If your sides are out of square, then all you need do is adjust the blade until that is square.

Regards from Perth

Derek

An elaboration

Ed Mulligan, Cape Cod

>Paul �

Before I could elaborate I had to go to the shop and take a few licks with each plane to refresh my memory. The image below shows the exercise. For reference, I shoot a lot of small stuff. My hand is small.

My favored handhold is behind the iron. The planes that work best for me have their weight down low toward the sole. The 62 is best in this regard. I can grip the 62 comfortably, change the mouth easily, and with the bevel-up design can vary the attack angle by varying bevel angle. The low angle allows very fine adjustment.

The LN 9 is second. Again, weight down low, bevel up. The mouth is a bit less convenient to adjust, grip not quite as comfortable, but it works well. I don�t use the side handle. I wish LN supplied a �hot dog� handle like the original Stanley #9.

Next is the #7. Weight is low, good grip.

Next the T5. This is a little �tippy�. It tends to rotate off the shoot board because the center of gravity is higher. Again I don�t use the side handle although it�s shown installed in the image. The T5 was at one time my main shooting plane.

The #2 has a very high center of gravity and is tough to grip comfortably but it does good work especially if it is the only plane in the shop with a decent edge.

Ed

Forgot the image 

Ed Mulligan, Cape Cod

>

Your right Derek...

Scott Burr in Ben Lomond CA

>But I find it to be a PITA to get a blade square to an out of square plane. Again just MHO.

Re: Planes for shooting boards

John Horobin

>If you work out the surface area of the sides I don't think there is a lot of difference between the Record T5 and an 05 so I can see why a 05 would work just as well, especially with a side handle.

The Stanley #51 really takes some beating for this though.

John

Lie Nielsen Low Angle Jack!!!

Dan Clermont in Burnaby

>

Driveby! Driveby!

Joe Rogers, Northern Virginia

>Is that not a bronze L-N #9???JR

Re: Forgot the image

Rusty Miller

>Ed,

Is that a "Donkey's Ear" that you are shooting on? Do you have any plans for one?

Thanks,

Rusty-Tye, TX

Busted :)

Ed Mulligan, Cape Cod

>

Plans, sort of *LINK*

Ed Mulligan, Cape Cod

>Rusty -

Yes, it's a donkey's ear. There was a recent thread about them at the link below.Let me know if you need more info.

Here's another shot that wasn't in the old thread.




Donkey Ear

Re: Planes for shooting boards

William Duffield, on the Cohansey

>I usually use either a Type 11 Stanley #7 or a L-N #7. Sometimes, if I'm in a hurry, I just use my L-N #073 on a bench hook. "In a hurry" includes those times where the need to make a quick fit is more important than the need to be plumb and square to an arbitrary standard. Sure, it tends to wear out the hook, but that is a disposable.

Re: Planes for shooting boards

AD

>My favourite is my HNT Gordon Trying plane. Shoots end grain like butter and the handle makes it really easy to hold for shooting. See pic

Re: Planes for shooting boards

Don Thompson - Cutler Ridge, Florida

>You are one of a few that I see use a #7 or #8 plane for shooting. What advantages do you see to that?

Re: Planes for shooting boards

William Duffield, on the Cohansey

>Well, if you aren't using a low angle, bevel up plane, the extra mass of the long plane helps you power through an endgrain cut in a wide board, or glued-up panel. We mostly use it on job sites, where it is an advantage to not carry a lot of planes, and where the #7 is taken along for other jobs, like fitting doors, etc.

Re: Planes for shooting boards

John Snyder, pocono's

>I use an old $3 flea market wooden jack plane for my limited shooting board work -I planed the side totally square to the base - left the planed sides unfinished & wax them. Wood slides so much better than an iron bodied plane on a shooting board its unbelievable. I don't use it for end grain much, so the mouth opening isn't that critical.

J

I forgot ...

John Snyder, pocono's

>.... the most important reason I like a wooden plane on a shooting board is that its so much easier to hold onto - lets face it, there's no easy way to hold the body of a metal plane for extended jointing sessions on a shooting board - a slab sided woodie is SO much easier to hold...

J

Re: wooden planes *LINK*

Pam Niedermayer - Austin, TX

>Exactly, and it gets easier if you run a stick through it behind the blade. I love using the HNT Gordon try plane for this job.

Pam


Gordon try plane in shooting board action