1000 & 8000 grit Shaptons enough?

Re: 1000 & 8000 grit Shaptons enough?

Jim in Burlington Ontario

>That is what he uses on his video's. I have complete faith that his system works better than any other I've used. If you have to flatten the backs of chisels you could always buy a sheet of microabrasvie paper.

Re: 1000 & 8000 grit Shaptons enough?

Moses Yoder in White Pigeon, MI

>I use a 900 and 8000 water stone for my plane blade sharpening, and I'm positive my 8000 isn't cutting as well as the Shapton will. I think you will be well satisfied with just the 1000 and 8000 Shaptons; if not, you can always get the 5000 later on.

Re: 1000 & 8000 grit Shaptons enough?

Frank D. in Montreal

>In my limited experience the middle stone reduces wear on the fine stone. But as long as you're taking out the scratches from the rough stone you're fine. It'll just take more strokes and a bit longer by jumping right to an 8000 from a 1000, and the 8000 is the most expensive stone so it'll cost you a bit more in the long run.

Re: 1000 & 8000 grit Shaptons enough?

David Wheeler

>I recently got the 1500/8000/15000; I was told that the DRLP shouldn't be used with the 1000.

I think as long as you are using DC's method it works great. But if you are using the Harrelson Stanley method you will need to get the 5000 (he works the entire bevel). I tried his freehand method on some plane blades; and just couldn't do it. I think I will be able to on chisels; but there is so much surface when you are doing plane blades that it is hard to maintain the flat of the bevel, at least for me.

I've been pleased with the shaptons; they cut faster than my other stones; and the DRLP is very quick and easy to flatten the stones.

-David

It really depends on the alloy...

Lyn J. Mangiameli

>of the steel you are using, whether or not you intend to flatten backs this way (I do) and how much time you are content to spend. You can get by with this size jump if you are working the bevels of carbon steels, but it sure is going to take you a lot of time to flatten an entire back of an A2 or M4 plane blade this way.

So it really comes down to what you want to do and on what. When I flatten backs (my primary use of the Shaptons), I go 100, 200, 500, 1000, 2000, 5000, 8000, 12000 and don't find this one bit excessive and virtually essential on an alloy like M4 or All. Not only does this reduce time to flatten, but it actually is cheaper for me in the long run because I am not overworking the more expensive finer stones.

Of course, there is no reason not to start with a 1000 and 8000 and add as appropriate to your budget and needs.

I usually use Scary Sharp.

Matt Malin

>To flatten the backs. I am mainly thinking of using the Shaptons to do a "quick" hone when I am busy working and need to sharpen quickly.

I am mainly thinking of expedience after all the flattening is done. I didn't say that in my first post. That would have helped.

Below is a picture of my SS jig.

Here's pic. 

Matt Malin

>

Nice set up

Don Thompson - Cutler Ridge, Florida

>What brand of chisel is that?

Re: Nice set up

Matt Malin

>I don't remember the name it's one I picked up for a buck at a flea market. It's a good utility chisel. It is the one that gets used for new techniques or ideas.

Re: looks like...

Kurt Loup, Baton Rouge

>...the 1/2" Sandvik chisel I have. Seems to hold an edge pretty well. I like it because the blade is thinner than my Stanley socket chisels. It reaches into dovetails better than the Stanleys for paring tails. You can see it on my bench that is under construction.

Kurt

I really like your clamp...

Lyn J. Mangiameli

>and the looks of your whole holder. Much better than the lead blocks I used to use to keep the sheets in place

Thanks!

Matt Malin

>I put a non-skid mat under it and it pretty much stays put. I don't know the name of the white plastic that I use as a hold down but it's used in making refrigerators. My dad gave me a whole box of 1" x 1" sticks of it. It's great for jigs. It makes a good surface to 'nick' incase I hit it with a blade edge.

Re: looks like...

Matt Malin

>Your bench is looking good! The steel on those chisels is a lot like Two Cherries. Probably made in the same factory.

Couple of questions

David Hay @ Denver

>Is the glass attached to the plywood in any way? Or is it held in place by the clamp too? Related question: is the paper attached to the glass? Or do you just sharpen on the back stroke?

Thanks!

David

Re: Couple of questions

Matt Malin

>The glass and paper are both held by the clamp. I only use a back stroke. I am trying to keep the process as dry as possible. That is what attracted me to the Shaptons. No soaking, just spritzed with water. I have a 100 grit ceramic flattening stone that works great.

Re: looks like...

Kurt Loup, Baton Rouge

>Thanks for the bench compliment. The base is mostly finished now. I'll post some updated pictures later.

The finish on the Sandvik is not polished like a Two Cherries chisel. The grinding marks are still present. I have a Two Cherries 1/8" chisel and the Sandvik is thinner. Not sure how the other size Two Cherries compare in thickness, but the 1/8" may be thicker to beef up the narrower width. That would be great if they are the same steel. The TC chisel holds an edge well. I have the Sandvik sharpened at a lower angle for paring, thus not a direct comparison. The handles are sure similar.

Kurt

Workbench

Don Thompson - Cutler Ridge, Florida

>I can not figure out what is going on with the corner/end of the bench - is that going to be a combo tail/end vice?