Pontypool *LINK*

Re: Pontypool

Moses Yoder in White Pigeon, MI

>That looks like the same company I bought the stuff from a few years back. It works good, I just did another plane recently, which makes three that I have re-japanned. You don't have to heat it, but if you do, it makes a much more durable finish I think, although I haven't run any scientific tests to see what the difference is. Thanks for the link to the web site. A quart of jappanning will probably do 20 or 30 planes.

Re: Pontypool

Ernie Miller Topeka

>I got mine when Moses did bake that stuff on and it comes out looking good I have done 4-5 it's easy I also did some ford parts for a friend and it came out looking real close also.

Thanks guys!

Darin in Victoria

>

Re: Pontypool

Jack Guzman from Maine

>In their ad they say heating not recommended.How long do you bake for and how hot?---Jack

Re: Pontypool

Ernie Miller *Topeka

>I use the toaster oven unless the wife is out for several hours. lo heat for 1 hour let cool completly then medium for 45 minutes cool and then high for 30 minutes. don't get it so hot it bubbles. I don't have my notes in front of me but the direstions are on rusty's? site that has electrolis and thst is the directions I fallowed. it bakes it on good. the statement on Ponty pool website is probably for liability reasons.

Re: Pontypool

Jack Guzman from Maine

>Makes sense. I can imagine someone trying to "bake it on good" by running the oven at high until the asphaltum starts to burn.

I have a type 12 #3 that I just tuned up that has one tiny section of Japanning left on it.I rescued this plane from a box of rust. It was covered with the stuff(rust not japanning).All the screws were stuck and there are some digs in the sole from a grinder. After a minor session on 120 grit s/c paper the area in front of the mouth was flat and clean.I had to grind some of the sw iron to get past some pitting but the plane makes nice thin shavings now and I like the look and feel of it. I want to japan it.It's either that or rustoleum,and I don't think rustoleum will do it for me.---Jack

late to the thread, but with a third option....

John Truxell-Svenson (jvs)

>I have a pair of planes that were both rust- and (nearly) japanning-free, and refinished them for two reasons; rust protection for non-wood contacting areas (the base of the frog, front of the mouth, between the tote and sidewalls, etc), and to make them easier to brush clean to prevent dark wood dust from being transferred to lighter wood. No collector value to either because of the condition ("well used") and type (17).

I am too cheap to spend ~$35 with shipping on a lifetime supply of Pontypool for just two planes, and had no luck with my $12 experiment in using asphaltum powder/linseed/turps (proportions one way wound up as a flat grey dust magnet; the other way left the surface too soft until it, too, went flat and dust-attracting).

I was a little hesitant about spraying because of all of the masking that would be necessary, but Rustoleum also comes as brushable paint in small cans. $4 worth is still 90% in the can after doing five coats each on a #6 and a #8. With multiple coats, it fills in the surface similar to the original japanning, and leaves a smooth, shiny, pure black finish. Hard paste wax applied with a a scotchbrite pad and buffed out cuts back the sheen some, and leaves a still-easy-to-clean surface behind.

For the money, it may be worth the experiment, and it comes off with the same strippers as japanning if you don't like it.




/jvs