tuning a block plane

Re: tuning a block plane

L. Hanson

>No one else jumping in, so here's something to get them started...

Therein lies the beauty of a block plane with an adjustable mouth. The one you have sounds like it isn't, maybe it's a Stanley model 220? I have one of those, I keep it around for general purpose work, where I'm not as concerned with the finish. I wouldn't toss it, as it's still a good plane - you just might need to add a couple more to round yours out.

I have 2 other block planes in my arsenal, both for finer work than the 220. The first is a Miller's Falls that's similar to a Stanley 9-1/2, which is my go to plane for long grain work, and a Craftsman 3732 (aka Stanley 65) low-angle plane for end grain work.

I find few situations that I can't handle with these three block planes.

There - now maybe someone else can jump in and tell us how they would close that mouth up on yours... Then maybe I can do it to mine, too. 8-)

Leif

NorseWoodsmith.com

Sounds like a newer...

Scott Burr in Ben Lomond CA

>Stanley type "contractors" plane. Shimming could help, but you'll loose your blade adjustment. Maybe an aftermarket blade would help if they are available for your plane. If it was me I'd bite the bullet and get a nice adjustable mouth block plane.

Re: tuning a block plane

Angus Barclay

>You can put a small (5 deg) back-bevel on the underside of the blade.

This will mean the blade has to move further forward towards the front of the mouth before it starts cutting, effectively closing the mouth a little.

Because the plane is a bevel-up plane, the back-bevel won't alter the effective cutting angle. But it will leave the cutting edge less well supported than without the back-bevel.

regards

Angus Barclay

Re: tuning a block plane

Gary in Vancouver, BC

>Hi Bob .. I have actually gone through the same problem you are facing. The mouth opening on my #7 Miller Falls skew LA block plane was too wide. What I did was take a small shim (I used arborite) and siliconed down onto the blade bed as shown in the picture. This has the effect of raising the blade and closing the mouth. You'll have to test how much thickness the shim should have. Too thick and the mouth opening will be closed completely. Use silicon to seal it down and that way it can be removed if you ever decide to reverse the process. This would be far more economical to do than buying another plane, and makes a good user out of the one you do have.

Re: tuning a block plane

Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)

>Gary

I did exactly the same with my Stanley #140, only I used an Exacto (steel) blade for a shim. Ended up with a nice, tight mouth.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Re: tuning a block plane

Gary in Vancouver, BC

>Derek

I was pleasantly surprized on how well this worked. You could use a variety of materials, I suppose (old credit card for example) as long as the thickness is correct. I was able to get the mouth opening down to 1/64" from about an 1/8" before the mod. Works great!

Re: tuning a block plane

Bob Sobieck

>Great advice! I will try it. I have some stubborn Cherry that chips without the narrow mouth. Although now I do admit I don't have a good excuse to run and get a Lie-Nielson - perhaps some day.

Thanks for the response.

Bob