Re: Efficacy of coffin smoothers
Wiley Horne--Glendora CA
>Hi David,
General theory: All these planes which represent a high stage of evolution of their type will have some things uniquely good about them. Those planes were perfected over years by people with no safety net, other than wit and ability. The tools gotta be good.
The traditional coffin smoother is light and manueverable, and tends to ride on a shorter base than most metal smoothers of comparable blade width. The short base can be very useful in situations where you're more interested in smooth than dead flat--it follows the surface well.
Another thing I was reminded just today is that we're not always planing a board or panel in a straight line. Sometimes we're planing around a corner, like on a frame. Today, I was edge planing uphill and downhill--it was a cabinet top with a projecting front, so has 6 sides. The most perfect plane in mating to the wood in a situation like that is a woody, cause you can feel the contact with the work so well, and because it is light. A C&W 55 is what I used--it was great.
Come to think of it, here is another situation: planing drawer edges to fit. Ever plane the top edge of a drawer side with a metal plane, and clip the back or front? I have--and the heavier the metal plane, the bigger the dent it will make in your finished drawer. I only want to use woodies in that situation. Japanese or coffin smoother is outstanding.
Lyn is right. Look in your pile and pIck one with a high angle--perhaps an English one. And get it way sharp. Buy one of Dave Anderson's brass and lignum hammers--they're perfect for making adjustments (including your moulders, too). No, you don't have to buy Dave's hammer. It only helps a lot. I think that plane will find a niche somewhere in your work.
Wiley