marking knives

Re: marking knives

Dan Moening, in foggy Sacramento

>In my limited handtool experience I've used any number of things for layout/marking.

I've found for general marking and layout where the mark is placed on an exposed surface 1.5" would be fine.

However, for tighter spaces (as is needed for marking pins from tails in DT joinery) I am currently using an exacto blade that exceeds 2".

I'm considering making a marking knive this January when shoptime is more plentiful, and will be interested to see what the general consensus is on this.

Dan.

Re: marking knives

Ted Owen, Pittsburgh

>Do you find an Exacto blade 2" long to flex? I have trouble with even shorter Exacto blades wandering.

Best, Ted

Re: marking knives

Dan Moening, in foggy Sacramento

>The exacto blade does indeed flex.

I have adopted an unruly technique that uses the flex to an advantage by somewhat pressing the flexed blade upon verticle face. On awkward dance, but its what I have, and what works for me at the moment.

The tendency to wander is due (IME) to the species of wood being marked.

However, your observations are the reason why I'm planning on making my own marking knife soon.

Dan.

Re: marking knives

Jim in Burlington Ontario

>I have several different knives and tried the exacto but it's to sharp and will follow the grain. I prefer my slightly dull pocket knife.

Re: marking knives

paul womack

>Do you find an Exacto blade 2" long to flex?

When marking, I make a light cut, followed by a heavier cut. Attempting to make a deep cut in a single pass is asking for trouble; in particular, with that much force around, it's easy to move your reference (ruler or square).

Excessive force will also tend to make the blade flex - or worse.

Once you've made an accurate shallow cut, it's very easy to make it deeper in a second pass, partially guided by your reference, partially guided by the shallow cut.

This is the same (classic) technique taught by Kingshott for using marking gauges.

BugBear