reccomendations for low angle block planes

Re: reccomendations for low angle block planes

David Miller from Iowa

>Hi David -

Be careful about what you ask for - you will recieve a plethora of comments, many of which will be contradictory. I'm not really qualified to answer, as I have never planed inlay, but that won't stop me from saying that I have several of the Stanley #60 series, the LN 60.5 and 140, and the LV low angle. The LV and the LN 60.5 are heftier, and that feels better, but I'm not sure if I've noticed any real difference in performance (ducking from those who are more opinionated than I). I do always turn to the 140 when the wood gets tricky, like where woods meet at two different grain directions. For my work, the 140 skew makes up for the none-to-tight throat.

Good luck, David

Re: reccomendations for low angle block planes

Jim in Burlington Ontario

>David well how big is your hand? I own the LN LV and stanely low angle block planes. The LV is by far the biggest. It gets alot of use for edge planing. The LN get's mostly used for end grain planing and truth be told the stanley is a piece of junk compared to the other two but get's the most use by far. It's the lightest and gets most non precision trimming jobs. The stanely does need the iron upgraded IMO.

Re: reccomendations for low angle block planes

Steve Kubien

>Hi Dave,

I only own one LA block and it is buy Veritas/Lee Valley. It does everything I ask of it so I do not know why I would ever 'need' another. I may acquire others but actually 'need'? I doubt it.

Steve Kubien

Re: reccomendations for low angle block planes

Pam Niedermayer - Austin, TX

>The only official block plane I own is the right handed LN 140. I'll probably get a left handed version real soon now. At any rate, it does everything I've needed it to do so far, haven't planed inlays, though.

Pam

Re: reccomendations for low angle block planes

Greg Sloop, Portland OR

>I'm not sure why you are selecting a "small" plane for inlay work.

I'm assuming you intend to imply that block = small. This isn't exactly correct, as if I understand correctly, block planes are to plane end grain (cutting blocks) - thus, "block planes" should mean low bedding angle. I have taken to calling them BD (bevel down) vs LABU (low angle bevel up) to save confusion.

In either case, I recommend the LV (lee valley) low angle smoother or the LV 62.5 low angle jack. If you need small size, and want the most flexability, then I recommend a low angle block and then have an additional blade at a higher angle for doing face grain - such as inlays. Actually for any of the above, you'll probably want to have at least one additional blade sharpened at a *total* angle of anywhere from 50-70 degrees. (That would be 37 deg - 57 deg on the blade alone.)

The higher angles will help greatly when doing face grain and gnarly grained stuff too.

If I were slecting a small LA plane, I'd recommend either the LN 60.5 or the equiv. plane from LV. I just used both of these yesterday - I have the 60.5, but find the LV one to be virtually the same.

I hope that helps.

Best,

Greg

Correction

Pam Niedermayer - Austin, TX

>Greg (see below) jogged my memory. I've also got the LN 62, which is a block plane. Sorry.

Pam

Re: reccomendations for low angle block planes

Dan Clermont in Burnaby

>Hi David,

I use the Lie Nielsen 60 1/2. I really like it for its heft.

I have held the Veritas version which is wider then the Lie Nielsen and too large for my hands. Never taken it to would so can't tell you about the performance of it either.

I agree with Greg on getting a second blade and changing the angle to around 70 degrees to remove tearout. Small Low angle Block plane are great for getting into low spots with tearout. The short body allow it to get into the valleys whereas a Low angle jack will require removing more wood before reaching the tearout.

If your looking for a nice Bevel up Low angle jack for general use I think Greg Sloop may be selling his Lie Nielsen Low angle jack with four blades. I really like my LN Low angle jack.

Good Luck,

Dan Clermont

Re: reccomendations for low angle block planes

Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)

>David

Your question is actually a bit vague, and as a result is likely to produce quite divergant responses.

Some will answer you directly about a choice of block planes, since you request this. And the fact is that there are many excellent ones from which to choose, all possible candidates at "the best". Personally, I have several, my favourite a Stanley #65 knuckle joint with Hock blade.

Since you are also talking about planing inlay, it may be construed that you want a small plane. Well a block plane is a small plane, but you do have other choices. An excellent small block plane is the LN #102 (the first block plane I bought). Another small plane is the HNT Gordon (and the Mujingfang version, which I have) mini smoother. These are about 3" long and will delicately cut the most gnarly timber. Also, don't rule out the use of a shoulder plane (or preferably a bullnose version) for delicate trimming. These work very well in these circumstances. I often use my Stanley #90/92/93.

I don't think that you are referring to large areas of inlay, but it you mean large areas of veneer, then I might start thinking about a scraper plane as well.

Just "what" did you have in mind?

Regards from Perth

Derek

Re: reccomendations for low angle block planes

paul womack

>I'd recommend (I own one) the Veritas Low Angle. If you're doing inlays (i.e. working large flat workpieces), the extra handles might be useful too.

It's bigger than many block planes, but this sounds useful in your case.

No matter which block plane you choose, you might want to use a second blade ground with a high angle to reduce tear out (or, in the case of inlay) "pull out".

For single-handed joint trimming, chamfering etc. I use a humble Stanley #60 1/2, because of it's small size.

BugBear

Re: recomendations for low angle block planes

Adam Cherubini, NJ

>I agree with Derek when he says your question belies some contradiction.

For surface work, you really want a rounded iron. For fine surface work with changing secondary (or in your case, primary) grain directions, you want a high angle plane.

Theorhetically, you can obtain a high angle on a low angle plane. I think the tip of the blade is stiff in this design, and that's good. But I'm less comfortable with a rounded iron on a LA plane. See Leonard Lee's discussion of thumbnail profiled carving gouges in his "Sharpening" book.

So I think you are asking a chisel to be a saw. For inlay work, I think you want a high angle plane with a high bedding angle. Grind a nice gentle curve to the iron.

Adam

I use a humble...

Scott Burr in Ben Lomond CA

>Stanley #60 1/2 too. It's a great plane. Along with his high angled brother the 18.

Derek

Jonathan Peck - N.Y.

>One of these days....you gotta line up all of your planes for a group photo. disclaimer- please post the usual warning so that we don't foul up our keyboards:-)

In answer to the question at hand, I am very fond of my LN block planes. I have just about every one they make.

Re: Derek *LINK*

Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)

>Hi Jonathan

What I have is not a patch on your set up. I love your workshop! I do have a few pics of mine, and of many of the handtools I own. These were taken several months ago when I reorganised my workshop for the first time in some years. Isn't it intersting how quickly handplanes breed?! Even in this short period of time I have added several, and again I need to reorganise so as to create space in which to work. Frankly, I tend not to spend too much time on fine shelves since I prefer to use the time I have on building furniture. We do have a home addition coming up in the near future (I plan to build a consulting room for my practice above the garage, and additional storage alongside it), which will then involve a reorganisation of my workshop. Perhaps then it will then provide the incentive to build nicer storage.

Below is a link to the earlier tool inventory, as was posted on a website. I hope you find it interesting.

Kind regards from Perth

Derek




Derek's workshop and tool inventory

Re: Derek

Jonathan Peck - N.Y.

>Derek,

Your shop is waaaaaay more organized than mine:-) Thanks for posting those pics. That's funny you said that cuz.....I really love your shop

Regards

Jonathan