Need: Infill shoulder plane expert.

Re: Need: Infill shoulder plane expert. *LINK*

joel

>THere's a picture in the website linked below of a New Norris shoulder plane mouth with a ruler for scale. However, it's the best norris I have ever seen, really crisp from the factory and cast too. They vary. Also a lot have wear on them. Your plane sounds a little wider than most but it should still work pretty well.

Note: Norris sold parts and castings to other makers in addition to doing private label stuff.


English Shoulder planes

Re: Need: Infill shoulder plane expert.

Jacques in Cinci

>Joel:

Thanks for the response and the link. Mine is a dead ringer for the one shown on the web page. The only difference is the wedge; which has been shaped to a rounded, boatlike profile.

I'll probably shim the blade up from the bed with a bit of brass. What's a good opening for one of these?

Thanks again.

Re: Need: Infill shoulder plane expert.

joel

>Shimming the bed I think defeats a lot of the point of an infill. The iron should be on wood. IMHO. Try the plane out and see how it works. Incindently it is not uncommon to see shoulder planes - Norris and others with mouths that were widenen intentionally - so so how it works first.

Re: Need: Infill shoulder plane expert.

Joe Rogers, Northern Virginia

>How would veneer work for a shim Joel? Any experience with this method?JR

Re: Need: Infill shoulder plane expert.

joel

>I don't know - I never had the occasion to do this - but again I would suggest first seeing how the plane works.

Re: Need: Infill shoulder plane expert.

Wayne Anderson

>I once had a very nice gunmetal shoulder plane that needed restoration. Specifically, the wedge had worn or shrunk over time and needed a shim. I added a rosewood shim to the underside of the wedge. It worked out well. Care must be taken to get the geometry right. In other words, make sure the wedge fits perfectly. A properly fitting wedge makes contact with the iron along its full length, especially towards the lower end where vibration damping occures. I often rub a soft lead pencil over the surfaces to be fit to. Installing the wedge, you will see from the rub marks where the wedge is contacting. Lightly file those marked areas until you get a proper fit. Patience in this process is critical, and will be rewarded with a fine fit. Wayne Anderson

Re: narrow mouth requirment?

paul womack

>Since tearout is not an issue when planing endgrain, why is a super-narrow mouth required on a shoulder plane, used for shooting/fitting tenon shoulders?

BugBear

Re: narrow mouth requirment?

joel

>A narrow mouth makes it easier to start the cut even if you don't attack the wood in a perfectly straight line to the cut. But I would aggree it is of less importance than it is on a smoother.

Re: Need: Infill shoulder plane expert.

Cameron Miller

>I agree with Joel - the mouths vary greatly on infill shoulder planes. I also agree to test out your plane first to see how it operates with the type of work/wood you're doing/using.

If you need to though you can shim with veneer, brass, steel or even plastic! You might lose a bit on the visual aspect though if you use the plastic.

If you want to get really adventurous you could always "sweat" on a new sole made from an old handsaw blade. That effect looks better (and more traditional) on a brass or gunmetal body though.

Re: narrow mouth requirment?

paul womack

>A narrow mouth makes it easier to start the cut even if you don't attack the wood in a perfectly straight line to the cut. But I would aggree it is of less importance than it is on a smoother.

That gels with what I was thinking. It sounds as if any mouth under (say) .02" (2 hundredths or 20 thou) should be perfectly suitable.

BugBear

Re: Need: Infill shoulder plane expert.

Jacques in Cinci

>Thank you Cameron, Joel, Wayne, Bugbear and all who kindly posted responses.

I put out a call for experts and I sure got some. some. Wow!

I'm much more knowledgable than I used to be.

Regards,

Jacques