Wood plane restoration gurus-help

Re: Wood plane restoration gurus-help

Todd Hughes

>Ogontz was a brand name of planes made by Sandusky most of which i believe was sold by hardware dealers such as Hibbard Spencer and Bartlett. Most are pretty common....I'd rub it down with the tung oil or some linseed oil and be done with it....OH, Ogontz was an Indian Chief who lived in Sandusky Ohio.....Todd

What I do

jim_reed@marietta

>Remove blade and wedge. Mix 1/3 turps and 2/3 boiled linseed oil and apply liberally. Put it on newspaper to dry. The mixture absorbs better if the temp is 80 degrees or above. After an hour or so, wipe down with soft cloth. Repeat in a week if necessary. Let dry for several weeks and then use Johnsons paste wax. Good luck.

Re: Wood plane restoration gurus-help

Adam Cherubini, NJ

>Technically, whatever you put on that plane is just hurting it. The stuff I do to planes (like oiling or waxing) isn't really helping the plane- its all cosmetic. So in terms of what is best...best for what? I think best for longevity is keeping the plane dry, and out of direct sunlight.

Beech was probably choosen because it moves so quickly. I say probably because we don't know why, but beech does move faster than comparable alternatives.

So if you are really interested in functional restoration, you may do well to clean/scrape the end grain. I think that would include the mouth, bed, etc. This goes double for smoothies whose bodies are purposely made to be all end grain.

In the past I have soaked my smoothers in linseed oil, then waxed their bodies (not the same as full body waxing) with pure beeswax (whatever that is- ever seen the MSDS for beeswax?).

This is not only counterproductive, but unstewardly. Since I know better, that makes it criminally stupid as well, but they sure look pretty that way!

Adam

Re: Wood plane restoration gurus-help

Alan Hamilton

>Roy,

The fellow who taught me most of the very little I know about wood working made many of his own planes and restored old, neglected planes to usefulness. Whether new or old he did the same thing to all his wooden planes.

He blocked the bottom of the mouth with sash putty, and then filled it with boiled linseed oil. Whenever he remembered he would top it off with more oil. He kept it full until oil oozed out both ends. He then poured off any remaining oil and set the tool aside until the oil cured.

All his woodies looked great and were a delight to hold. The wood had a slick feel to it without feeling oily or waxy, a little like rosewood or lignum vitae. His planes skated over wood with little effort. I don't remember him using wax, but he might have.

Alan

Thanks, now what about Linseed vs Tung

Roy from Cincy

>Thanks for all the great advice guys. Here's one question. I've been told that Linseed oil never really cures but Tung oil does and it's therefore better. What's the deal?

Re: Thanks, now what about Linseed vs Tung

Patrick Gibbons, Houston, TX

>Polymerized tung oil is definitely better than adulterated, nonpolymerized mixtures. Check the Sutherland Welles internet site for some good oils and information.