Rusted parts....

Re: Rusted parts....

David Miller from Iowa

>First, both Stanley and Sargent made the Craftsman combination plane - the quick check is the blade advance. The Stanley had the dial with the little post and pin to engage the cutter, whereas on the Sargent the turning knob itself engaged the cutter.

Second, you may need to tap the rod out, but make sure the casting around the rod is supported. I have done this by getting a nut that just fits over the rod, putting it in the vise, sliding the rod through so that the casting hole is very well supported, then tap tap tap. Be careful though, and go easy. If this doesn't work, you might consider a heating the casting with a blowtorch then tapping as above, but you will ruin whatever finish/patina may be left. I suppose a mottled plane is better than a busted one though.

Go slow. Good luck, David

Re: Rusted parts....

Tim Caley - North Little Rock

>Could I heat the rod? Would that do the same thing? I think a rod would be easier to replace than the side of the plane.

Re: Rusted parts....

Dan Donaldson

>That may do the opposite of what you are trying to accomplish. Heating the casting will help break up the rust, but also cause it to expand and create some clearance for the rod. If you heat only the rod, it will expand and become even tighter in the hole.

The ideal heating strategy would be to heat the casting without heating the rod at all if you can figure out a way to do that.

Re: Rusted parts....

Dale Stansbery

>You might try electrolysis. Suspend it in the tank keeping the wood handle above the water line. I've freed some pretty rusty parts this way.

Re: Rusted parts....

Tom MacGregor

>I buy penetrateing oil by the gallon and totally cover frozen parts to soak for about a week if possible. I also have a Craftsman 45 clone that had only short rods. I discovered that, unlike the Stanley, common 3/8" steel rod from the hardware store would fit. If yours is the same you can sacrifice the rod to get it out if necessary to preserve and use the rest of the plane. I've sawn off rods and drilled them out of things, developed a little play by turning a rod with visegrips, etc.

Re: Rusted parts....

Jack Guzman from Maine

>Dan's right that the rod will expand when heated,but it will also shrink again when cooled down.This will cause some movement at the joint. When it is hot add a little light oil to the joint.The heat should draw the oil into the joint and help free it up.

I would try the electrolosis first though.Less trauma to the tool.---Jack

Re: Rusted parts....

Brad in Ottawa

>I saw someone this week heat up a rusted nut on a pipe. Once it was heated up and expanded he grabbed paraffin wax rubbed it on the top of the nut.

The heat caused the nut to expand off the pipe somewhat. The heat also melted the parrafin which drew down the into the bolt. Sort of like soldering pipes.

The wax now penetrated the nut and bolt. It was quick and easy to take it off then.

As for your current predicament... don't heat the rod. It will expand becoming tighter.

Secondly if you are applying heat now, be careful. You used some penetrating oil which the last time I checked was flammable.

Brad

Re: Rusted parts....

Alan Hamilton

>Tim,

Toss the whole tool into a vat (or pail, if you have no vat) of kerosene. Don't get over anxious. Just let it sit there. Every so often, when you remember, take it out and try to move the rod. It might take a week or a month or... but kerosene has never failed me yet.

Alan

Zap it

Todd O. Cronkhite Native of Maine

>Tim,

Loooooooooooong before I'd consider heating any part of that tool I'd zap it. "Zapping" is another term for electrolisys. Trsut me it will free up your rod and do little "damage" to your tool. By damage I mean removing patina, and loose jappaning. Jave never had it damage nickel plating. ARM AND HAMMER WASHING SODA in place of the Lye that is commanly mentioned. the Lye is caustic and WILL promote future rusting no matter how much oil or wax you put on the tool afterwards. DAMHIKT.

By far the best aricle I have ever seen on Electrolysis was in the Sept. '93 issue(#63) of WOOD Magazine,page #74.

follow it to the letter except use the washing soda vice the lye and you'll be glad you did.

I've soaked rusty toos in Kerosine before and never had any luck. Zapping will take you 30 minutes.

No way in Hades would I ever consider taking a torch to a tool.

Todd O.

Re: Rusted parts....

Tim Caley - North Little Rock

>I think that I will try the electrolisys. I don't have a battery charger, so I will have to start looking for one at garage and estate sales.

Thanks to everyone that replied.