Tight Infill Mouth

Re: Tight Infill Mouth

Dan in Illinois

>Paul,

I vote for option number 2: grind the blade, which is exactly what I did when I came across an infill plane. I asked a machinist buddy to do the actual grinding as I would have no idea how to do it. Fortunately, I had the original iron which did not have too much usable material left as the reference thickness to aim for. The grinding turned out perfectly and I spent minimal time honing the back of the iron before it had a mirror sheen. I hope this helps.

Dan

Re: Tight Infill Mouth *LINK*

Bruce, a MN galoot

>The blade can be ground down by use of a surface grinder. Any machine shop may be able to help you.

A replacement blade made to your specs can be obtained from Ron Hock, link below.

Bruce


Hock Blades

Re: Tight Infill Mouth

Cameron

>Yeah, whatever you do don't file the mouth of the plane. There's been too much of that sort of thing happening already!

Re: Tight Infill Mouth

Ernie Miller Topeka

>I agree that grinding the blade or getting a differant one is the way to go. But there may be another option? could you put a back bevel on the blade again making the cutting angle higher not optimum and still make it work? Nothing beats an infill with a mouth so tight you have to split molicules of air to get them to fit through.

Re: Tight Infill Mouth

WoodburnBob

>I take it your blade is 1/64=0.015 or so too thick. The only easy option you might have not considered is to grind in a back bevel. The machinist-surface grinder approach or new blade, I'd guess, are in the $50-$100 range. Also, you might advertise for an online blade swap.

Depending on the particular plane and it's condition, it might be okay to just move the mouth. This is almost a moral values issue for some, but I think the prohibitions can get a little rigid and silly...depending on the particular plane being scheduled for circumcision.

Re: Tight Infill Mouth

joel

>Does the blade fit at all? The last owner might have wanted a really tight iron. In which case back off the cap iron and see if it works without clogging on a very fine cut.

otherwise:

if the plane isn't particiulart collectible you might want to file the mouth but I personally would end up getting a new blade.

Re: Tight Infill Mouth

Tim of San Leandro

>I suppose you've ruled out spending an hour or few using a coarse stone one the entire back of the iron?

Re: Tight Infill Mouth

Paul Benton

>Dan,

if I get it ground, which side of the blade is ground, the side with the chip breaker or the side resting on the frog? And do I need to get the whole of the blade ground or just the leading part up to the slot, effectively making a gigantic back bevel?

Paul

Re: Tight Infill Mouth

Dan in Illinois

>Paul,

I had the back of the blade where it contacts the chip breaker ground to thickness. Good luck.

Dan

Re: Tight Infill Mouth

Paul Benton

>Joel,

the blade is a replacement (and I suspect was provided cos' the plane needed a blade) and even with the cap iron backed off it doesn't provide an opening.

The consensus is to get the blade ground or a new blade, but what should I be aiming for as far as an opening? Where do you draw the line between ultra tight mouth and usability?

Paul

Re: Tight Infill Mouth

joel

>I'd probably go for a .01" mouth. it's a little on the fine side but it should work. The problem with very fine mouths (.01" etc is that the plane is only good for final smoothing and anytime you get the urge to go thicker you clog. If you go wider to .015 you can always shim the blade.) the wider mouth is more historically typical but lately everyone is going to rediculously thin mouths. if a friend is doing the grinding go for .005 and see if you like it. if not widen.