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Tile Table Top Design Questions

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Tile Table Top Design Questions

#1

Tile Table Top Design Questions

Don Thompson, Cutler Ridge, Florida

>We have some leftover 3x3 tiles from our pool construction, and LOML asked whether I could make a little outdoor side table featuring them.

I have a general idea how people do this, including that some use cement board under the tiles to improve adhesion. However, because it would be outdoors, I am thinking that the recess for the tiles will make sort of a pond, trapping water, and contributing to wood rot.

Does anyone have any thoughts on how to eliminate this problem? Any useful ideas will be greatly appreciated.

Re: Tile Table Top Design Questions

#2

Re: Tile Table Top Design Questions

David Miller from Iowa

>Intead of making a frame an putting the tiles in them (which is what I presume you mean by the "recess") consider getting some of those right angle edge tiles that they use on the outside corner of counter tops.

Good luck, David

Re: Tile Table Top Design Questions

#3

Re: Tile Table Top Design Questions

William R. Duffield on the Cohansey

>Yes, you are correct. No matter how you seal the wood and the joints between the tile and the wood, eventually something will move, the seal will fail, and water will get in. So, you have to let it out again.There are lots of different ways to reduce the problem.

My favorite method for building tile top tables is to build the wooden parts of the table as a frame. With tiles that large, you probably want to put a couple of cross-members (muntins) across the middle of the frame beneath each tile. Make the rabbet that the tile will sit in a bit loose (about 1/16" all around). I like to make the depth of the rabbet shallow enough to hold the top of the tile just above the frame. The tops of the muntins should be level with the bottom of the rabbet. Before installing the tiles, epoxy and spar varnish the whole frame, including the rabbets. Then attach the tiles with a few buttons of silicone seal. That way, the water that gets in just runs right through, and out the bottom of the table top. If you need to refinish, or even replace a tile, you can cut the silicone with a utility knife.

Oh yeah, build the frame from teak, or at least from ipe or purpleheart or some other stable, rot resistant wood.

Re: Tile Table Top Design Questions

#4

Re: Tile Table Top Design Questions

markb

>My suggestion - build the base, then screw AC exterior ply to the top, with a bit of overhang all around. Then attach backerboard to the ply (basically thinset and screw, but follow directions). Use thinset to fasten tiles. As David said, trim around edges with tiles designed for that kind of thing if you can find ones you like. Otherwise, use wood trim, fastened to side of plywood. Caulk between end of tiles and wood trim.

Most backerboards are, at most, water resistent. Wedi board, not terribly widely distributed, is a foam based board that is waterproof. I'd send you a piece but I don't think it would survive transit. I'm don't think that cement-based backerboards would survive outside.

Re: Tile Table Top Design Questions

#5

Re: Tile Table Top Design Questions

Don Thompson, Cutler Ridge, Florida

>I think I like that idea - I had thought of drain holes, but just making it an open framework would be better. And, I have some 4/4 teak in the woodpile.

Thanks, all!

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