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Which Planes

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Which Planes

#1

Which Planes

Alan Hamilton

>One of the evergreens on this site, and all the other wood working sites I've seen, is "what should be my first/next _______?"(fill in the blank with some tool). And around here the blank is usually filled with 'plane.'

I just finished drooling on my new Lie-Nielsen catalog and began to read some of the text. They say that the first two planes one ought to get are a jointer and a smoother, and later, only when the coffers are refilled, a jack.

I've seen that same recommendation elsewhere. It seems to me to make some sense--even overlooking that it takes no account of the specific work the plane buyer might want to do with those new planes.

But many around these here parts say a jack ought to be one's first plane because of its versatility. Others (like me) say that using only one plane to do the job best done by other planes means doing a job with less than the optimal tool; "jack of all trades, master of none."

So what's your reaction? Should a jack be the distant third plane to get?

Enquiring minds want to know.

Alan

Re: Which Planes

#2

Re: Which Planes

William R. Duffield on the Cohansey

>Not any where close to third! After the jointer and smoother, get a shoulder plane, a scrub, and a block plane. Then think about getting some molding, and rabbet and dado planes. Eventually you should come across a jack or three at a flea market or yard sale, so don't waste good money on a better jack than you need.

Re: Which Planes

#3

Re: Which Planes

David Miller from Iowa

>And the evergreen response is - "What kind of work will you be doing?" If you are surfacing rough cut lumber, a jack or jumbo jack is very handy. Assuming you won't be doing that a great deal to start, your (and Bill's) rationale is sound. You can always pick up a Stanley #5 to use when you need it.

Re: Which Planes

#4

Re: Which Planes

Vic P

>I started down this slippery slope with the purchase of a Stanley No 5C (about 1911 vintage as best as I can figure)from a flea market. My son "Norm" thinks I'm nuts to spend time tuning and sharpening etc. I wouldn't be here (as on this board) today if I had passed up that bargain #5.

Re: Which Planes

#5

Re: Which Planes

Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)

>Alan

I agree with both Bill and David, the common argument being that one should purchase what you need for the current project (we are speaking from the User perspective, aren't we?!).

My slide down the slippery slope began with a Stanley #3, which had been my late father-in-laws'. My next purchase was actually a #5-1/2 because I didn't know any better, and this really was a plane in No Man's Land - a good all rounder but not long enough to joint and too heavy for lighter work. I have only recently come to recognise this latter factor since recently obtaining a #5 - it is just so much lighter and user-friendly. In fact, I could see it used as a long smoother. But inbetween the #5-1/2 and #5 I bought as I needed: all round shoulder plane (#93), block plane (LN #102), #7 jointer etc, etc. Today I have far too many planes really (!) and keping buying more simply because they are fun to use. They become increasingly specialistic over time. I didn't get to a #5 until 10 years later because it really wasn't needed for the work I do, which is building furniture. On the other hand, were I a carpenter, or looking for a one-size-fits-all, a #5 would be a very sound choice as a first (and even only) hand plane.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Re: Which Planes

#6

Re: Which Planes

Tim of San Leandro

>I'd rather get a shorter smoother before a longer "smoother" like the Veritas LA jack. Why? I don't always have time to plane my boards and panels fresh off the thicknesser....after stacked and stickered for a day or many....some warp is introduced into the board. Not enough to remill the board as it doesn't affect joinery or appearance...but can make it difficult for a longer plane to reach some of the slight hollows.

Also...I'd put a scrub very high up. When face jointing, a scrub is often all I use before I feed the power thicknesser.

Tim

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